October 20th 2024.
Eric Kim, a writer for The New York Times, recently visited Atlanta and discovered a hidden gem of the city's food scene: hot wings. But not just any hot wings - these were Korean American wings, smaller and sharper in flavor than their Northern counterparts. Kim was drawn to these wings not only because of their unique taste, but also because his family had opened a wing shop, Cafe Hot Wing, in 1988.
At the time, eating hot wings every day was a normal part of Hank Kim's life. He could easily devour 20 in one sitting, thanks to their addictive flavor. These wings were coated in a red-hot sauce, bursting with cayenne and vinegar. They were so intense that they often came with celery and carrot sticks and a creamy dip to help tame the heat.
In the 1980s, this style of hot wing became a popular fast-food choice for the growing Korean American community in Atlanta. However, these wings are harder to come by now, and the best way to taste them is by making them at home. Other families were inspired by the success of the Kims' wing shop and opened their own, but many of the original Korean-owned shops have since closed.
Kim's cousin, Jun Yum, remembers his family opening a second location of Cafe Hot Wing in a northeast suburb of Atlanta. Back then, there were only a few businesses in the city that focused on wings, but now they are a staple in strip malls, whether it's a small family-owned shop or a larger chain. Unfortunately, many of the original Korean-owned shops have shuttered, but the fiery sauce they created still lives on.
According to Yum, the sauce was "an enhanced form of Cajun hot sauce," with a peppery taste and a vinegary kick. It was simple, yet complex, with a blend of hot sauce, spices, and pepper. The sauce was so addictive that it would make your mouth water and your sweat glands tingle. And it was all thanks to a few key dry ingredients like garlic powder, onion powder, black pepper, and cayenne pepper.
To replicate this original sauce, Kim shares a recipe that uses these key dry ingredients to add complexity to a cayenne hot sauce without diluting the flavor. And for those who don't want to fry their own wings at home, there is still a chance to taste something similar to the original wings at a shop called Atlanta Hot Wing's on Peachtree Industrial Boulevard in Duluth, about 12 miles north of Chamblee.
The owner, Jose Tenesaca, used to work at various Korean restaurants and chicken wing shops before opening his own. His hot wing sauce is a little different, with the addition of lemon juice that adds a fresh twist to the tanginess. But the original taste is still there, with a blend of chile, garlic, onion, and peppercorn. As Hank Kim says, "a lot of little things make a big difference."
For those who want to try making these hot wings at home, Kim shares a recipe for oven-fried wings that are just as crispy as deep-fried ones. The secret is tossing the wings with a touch of baking powder and salt before roasting them on a hot oiled sheet pan. And of course, no hot wings are complete without a side of ranch or blue cheese dressing and some celery and carrot sticks to help offset the heat.
In conclusion, Atlanta-style hot wings are a must-try for anyone visiting the city, whether you're a fan of traditional Buffalo wings or not. They are sharp, salty, and undeniably savory, with a sharp and tangy sauce that will make your mouth water. And as Kim says, "one whiff of the sharp red hot sauce should instantly make you drool." So next time you're in Atlanta, be sure to seek out these delicious hot wings and experience a taste of Korean American culture in the city.
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