June 14th 2024.
During the 1700s, the people of Edinburgh were known for their impeccable sense of fashion. However, as time passed, these stylish trends were forgotten. But now, thanks to an exhibition at the Georgian House, the elegant fashion of Edinburgh's high society is being revived.
The exhibition, curated by Dr Antonia Laurence Allen from the National Trust for Scotland, brings together portraits of the well-heeled figures from the Georgian New Town by the renowned painter, Allan Ramsay. This is the first time these portraits have been displayed together, offering a glimpse into the fashion of over 300 years ago and its significance for the women of Edinburgh's high society.
Dr Laurence Allen notes that sustainable fashion was just as important to 18th century consumers as it is to today's shoppers. Merchants would often sell cloth, ribbons, and lace to help revamp old ensembles, and dresses were tailored to fit a woman's body and could be altered as fashion and body shapes changed. Ramsay, known for his exquisite paintings of women, captured the trends of the time in his work, making him one of the finest 18th-century painters of female portraits.
The exhibition covers a 30-year period of Ramsay's career and explores both the naturalistic style and imaginative elements found in his paintings. Dr Laurence Allen explains that the exhibition not only showcases the National Trust for Scotland's impressive collection of Ramsay's work but also includes new research on the trades involved in textiles, clothing, and accessories in Edinburgh during that time. A map from 1742 has been used to plot the locations of these trades, and adverts from the era have been collected to give an insight into how traders promoted their products. A short film has also been created, depicting a lady's journey as she buys cloth and accessories from various shopkeepers along the high street.
The exhibition not only highlights the fashion of the 18th century but also draws parallels to today's concerns with sustainable fashion. Just as milliners and tailors would alter gowns and jackets, drapers and merchants would sell materials to revamp old outfits. The exhibition also shows how dresses were custom-made and could be altered to fit a woman's changing body shape. While there was no ideal figure at the time, there was an ideal silhouette.
Alongside the portraits, visitors will have the chance to see a rare 18th-century dress from Newhailes House, a property cared for by the National Trust for Scotland. Dr Laurence Allen explains that during the mid-1700s, fashion and clothing were essential in communicating one's social status. Wearing luxurious fabrics like silks, satins, and linens was a way for women to elevate themselves in polite society and display their wealth and social standing. Through his paintings, Ramsay captured popular styles of dress, promoting the cultural sophistication and progressive ideals of his sitters. These portraits allowed them to confidently present a contemporary image of themselves to their peers.
The exhibition, titled "Ramsay and Edinburgh Fashion," will be on display at the Georgian House in Edinburgh until November 24, 2024. It offers a fascinating look into the fashion of the past and its relevance to today's society. For more cultural stories, be sure to check out Scottish Field and subscribe to read the latest issue.
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