November 24th 2024.
When I announced to a few people that I was headed to Chihuahua, the most common response I received was, "Isn't Mexico expensive?" And to be fair, that's a common assumption. With its picturesque beaches and crystal clear waters, Mexico's resorts are known for their high prices. But little did they know, Chihuahua - the birthplace of the adorable Chihuahua dogs - is actually quite affordable. The hotels, food, and activities here are all reasonably priced, and the region itself offers an authentic experience with its stunning mountains, unspoiled nature, and rich history of indigenous and colonial influence.
Located close to the Texas border, Chihuahua is the largest state in Mexico and is home to the incredible Copper Canyon. This natural wonder is four times larger than the famous Grand Canyon and boasts depths of over a mile. In fact, in the Netflix documentary "The Evolution Of Us", Copper Canyon is described as "one of the most extreme landscapes in the world". And there are plenty of ways to explore this breathtaking landscape - from hiking and horseback riding to simply taking in the views from various watch points. One spot that I highly recommend is Cerro del Gallego, where you can truly appreciate the impressive scenery.
While the route through Copper Canyon is notoriously difficult to access and maintain, there is a convenient and comfortable way to experience it - the El Chepe railway. This 407-mile track, complete with 37 bridges and 86 tunnels, has been operating since 1961 and is considered an engineering marvel. It connects the city of Chihuahua to Los Mochis on the Pacific coast, and in 2018, the luxurious Chepe Express train was introduced for passengers traveling between Los Mochis and the town of Creel in Chihuahua.
For a more indulgent experience, first-class passengers can enjoy the viewing terrace and glass-domed dining car while feasting their eyes on the stunning landscape. And even though it may be a bit pricier than the regular train, a single ticket in a tourist carriage is still affordable at around £100. During the nine-hour journey, you'll be treated to spectacular views of the region's natural beauty - from towering mountain peaks to rugged ridges and dramatic waterfalls. And don't be surprised if you hear the staff mention a 180-degree turn that the train will navigate - it's quite a sight to see and a great photo opportunity!
One of the unique aspects of the Chepe Express is that it stops at remote towns along the way, giving passengers the opportunity to disembark and spend a few nights in these charming locations. And the best part? You can use the same ticket to continue your journey on another day (subject to specifications). One of the most fascinating things about Copper Canyon is that it is home to the indigenous Rarámuri people, who have been living in this area for centuries. Known for their long-distance running abilities, they have managed to preserve their culture and way of life by retreating into the canyon since the Spanish arrived in Mexico 500 years ago.
To learn more about the Rarámuri people and their way of life, we made a stop in Creel - a small but enchanting mountain town on the outskirts of the canyon system. Here, we explored the Valley of Mushrooms and Frogs - a valley filled with curious rock formations that children and adults alike love to climb. Along the way, we also passed by local stalls selling handmade bags, jewelry, and other trinkets. In the town square, we discovered the Museum of the Tarahumara Culture, where we learned about the Rarámuri's history of living in caves and even got to meet Catalina, an elderly woman who is considered a healer and shaman. She welcomed us into her former home - a cave where she now performs healing rituals.
But Copper Canyon itself is nothing short of mesmerizing, and there are endless ways to experience its beauty. For the thrill-seekers, Parque Barrancas in Divisadero is the place to be, with its daredevil adventures and stunning views of the canyon. And for those who prefer a more leisurely pace, there's always the option of taking a cable car ride or dining at the canyon's glass-bottomed park restaurant, which offers incredible views from above.
When it comes to accommodation in the area, prices start at around £100 per night for two people, including breakfast. And if you're looking for one of the best views in town and don't mind splurging a little, the award-winning Hotel Mirador is a must-visit. Perched on a cliff edge, it offers breathtaking views of the canyon from its highest point.
For history buffs, a visit to the state capital Chihuahua City is a must. Here, you can admire the beautiful architecture and visit historic landmarks and cultural attractions such as the Palacio de Gobierno, which houses a museum dedicated to the Mexican War of Independence. And when it comes to food and drinks, Chihuahua has a burgeoning culinary scene where you can indulge in delicious meals without breaking the bank. From street tacos at Rico's Tacos to more upscale fare in the trendy Distrito Uno, there's something for everyone. And don't forget to try the local tipple - sotol, a spirit made from the 'desert spoon' plant. It's a drink with a long history and is currently experiencing a revival, according to Victor from the Oro de Coyame distillery.
So, cheers to Chihuahua - a destination that offers both natural beauty and cultural experiences at an affordable price. And if you're interested in visiting, be sure to check out visitachihuahua.mx/en for more information. Flights to Chihuahua start at £950 with a stopover in Mexico City or Dallas. I flew with Aeromexico from London to Chihuahua via Mexico City, and I have to say, the journey on their 787 Dreamliner aircraft was a comfortable and enjoyable experience. And if you have a story to share about your own travels, get in touch by emailing us at email.
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