April 16th 2024.
Richard Bath was excited to try the newest venture from renowned Michelin star chef, Tomás Gormley. Gormley had quickly risen to culinary fame in 2023 when he and his partner, Sam Yorke, earned a Michelin star for their restaurant Heron in Leith. They then went on to open Skua, a successful small plates restaurant in Stockbridge, before parting ways.
While Gormley still owned Skua, he recently launched his own fine dining establishment, Cardinal, in the New Town area. This was his first solo venture, and he had taken over a well-known site in Eyre Place, following in the footsteps of other Michelin-starred entrepreneurs. The location had previously been home to several experienced restaurateurs, but Gormley was determined to make it his own.
Gormley had completely transformed the space, giving it a chic and contemporary feel. The black facade gave way to a minimalist interior with chalky black walls and stripped floorboards. But despite its simplicity, the restaurant had a distinct and stylish atmosphere.
The food at Cardinal was just as impressive as the decor. Gormley didn't need to boast about his use of local and ethical ingredients - his dishes spoke for themselves. The thirteen-course tasting menu was a showcase of intense and inventive flavors, with dishes like ethical foie gras, beetroot tuille, and cherry-smoked lobster with hollandaise. The attention to detail was evident in every bite.
The meal continued with a variety of dishes that came and went in a whirlwind, each one more creative than the last. The sourdough waffle with crème fraiche and buttermilk-fried chicken was a standout, as was Gormley's homemade beremeal bread and cultured butter. The main course featured Free Company beef with tallow and shallots, a dish that had been highly praised.
As for the wine pairings, they were eclectic and memorable, although not always to everyone's taste. Some of the natural wines were challenging, but for those who preferred a more traditional option, the extensive wine list had plenty to offer.
Dessert was a feast for the senses, with a variety of sweet delicacies that disappeared just as quickly as they arrived. The pudding wine from Hungary was a particular highlight, but there were many other excellent options to choose from.
Overall, Richard Bath had a fantastic dining experience at Cardinal. Gormley's talent as a chef was evident in every aspect of the meal, and his determination to succeed in a challenging location was admirable. It was a meal to remember, and Bath couldn't wait to see what Gormley's future held.
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