July 16th 2024.
I recently had the pleasure of dining at the Pompadour, one of the most elegant restaurants in Edinburgh. I was there to try out the six course tasting menu offered by their new chef, Dean Banks. As a regular diner, I have noticed the steep increase in prices at high-end restaurants, especially in Edinburgh. Gone are the days when you could enjoy a meal for two under £100. Nowadays, with the addition of paired wines and service charges, a fine dining experience can easily set you back by £200-300 per person.
Therefore, I was pleasantly surprised when I arrived at the Pompadour and discovered that their six course tasting menu, created by the talented Chef Dean Banks to celebrate the hotel's 120th anniversary, was priced at a reasonable £65. And if you opt for a bottle of wine instead of the paired wines, the total bill before service charges comes to a reasonable £170. In today's fine dining scene, this is a true bargain.
The Pompadour has had a long-standing reputation as the most prestigious and expensive dining room in Edinburgh. However, with the arrival of Chef Dean Banks and his celebratory tasting menu, the tide seems to have turned. The restaurant's grand interiors, with its stunning cornicing and beautiful tapestries, have remained unchanged over the years. The only difference now is the focus on offering a more affordable and accessible fine dining experience.
In the past, the Pompadour had a rotation of in-house head chefs, followed by a failed attempt by the Michelin-starred Galvin brothers to make it work. But now, with Chef Dean Banks at the helm, the restaurant is thriving. His entrepreneurial spirit is evident in his efforts to attract more diners with this special menu. And from what I witnessed during my visit, it seems to be working.
Now, let's talk about the food. We started off with three delicious canapes before moving on to bread and whipped beef fat, which was listed as a standalone course. While the bread was good, it didn't quite live up to the amazing bread and butter experiences I've had recently. However, the first official course, a terrine of rabbit breast and leg with chicken, was absolutely delicious. And when paired with a glass of 100% Gamay Morgon Cois du Py, it was a match made in heaven.
The rest of our meal consisted of a prawn cocktail, lemon sole, chicken with chicken mousse, and a peach melba and sacher torte for dessert. While each dish was enjoyable, it was the paired wines that stole the show. We were treated to a variety of wines, including a 2020 Ribolla Gialla from Slovenia, a 2022 Domaine Sutereau, a 2021 Jurancon Doux from Domaine Laguilhon, and a 2022 Brachetto D'Acqui Contero from Piedmonte. Each one was carefully selected and perfectly complemented the dishes, making for a memorable dining experience.
Overall, I highly recommend trying out Dean Banks' tasting menu at the Pompadour. It's a great opportunity to taste his culinary skills at an affordable price. And with the added bonus of exceptional paired wines, it's a dining experience not to be missed. You can find the Pompadour at The Caledonian Hotel on Princes Street in Edinburgh. Reservations can be made by calling 07401 760638. For more reviews, visit Scottish Field and subscribe for the latest issue.
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