December 6th 2025.
As the sun slowly descended on a calm and pleasant December Sunday afternoon, it painted the western sky with a warm glow. Near the Bhopal-Vidisha highway, the narrow Betwa River basked in the drooping sunlight while the hummocks could still be seen in the fading daylight. As the sun disappeared into the horizon, the evening shadows crept in, signaling the end of yet another beautiful day.
The peacefulness was interrupted by the chirping of birds returning to their nests and the sound of people making their way back to their homes after a day's work. Only a few resorts and roadside food outlets remained lit, while the rest of the area sank into darkness. The occasional passing vehicles were the only signs of life on the otherwise quiet highway. It was at this point, under the street light, that we came across a place that holds a special significance - the Tropic of Cancer.
Located on the Sanchi-Bhopal road, this underrated treasure of Madhya Pradesh is marked by a cemented board proclaiming the imaginary line that passes through it. It is a place where the rhythm of life seems to be different, and the gentle breeze that rustles through the crops under the dim moonlight only adds to its charm. As we slowed down our car to get a closer look, we noticed a selfie point set up in the area. While it may seem like any other spot during the day, at night, it takes on a dreamy and almost surreal quality, making it feel like time has stopped.
Despite being an imaginary line, there is a certain thrill that comes with standing near the Tropic of Cancer and feeling as though you are touching a line that circles the whole earth. And as we marveled at this thought, we couldn't help but wonder about the origins of this line and who came up with the idea. While there is no one person behind it, ancient Indian texts, such as the Mahabharata, mention the region of Jharkhand as Kark Khand, a place near the modern Tropic of Cancer, due to its tropical forests.
The Mahabharata also talks about the journey of the sun from the Tropic of Capricorn to the Tropic of Cancer, known as Uttarayan, or the northern course. This period holds great significance in Hindu astrology and is celebrated as Makar Sankranti. Even the ancient astronomers of Ujjain recognized the importance of this line, claiming that it passes near their city. And it's not just in Indian texts, the Periplus of the Erythraean Sea, written by an unknown Greek author, also mentions places and a port, such as Berenice, near the Tropic of Cancer.
As we continued our journey towards Bhopal, we were suddenly drawn to a column of smoke rising from the nearby farmlands and brick kilns. The sight of this black smoke, like a python coiling around the serene night, was a stark reminder of the environmental issues plaguing our world. And as we drove on, we couldn't help but think about the significance of the Tropic of Cancer, not just in terms of geography and astronomy, but also in our everyday lives.
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