November 17th 2023.
Paradise awaits. Off the coast of Madeira’s capital, Funchal, the Atlantic shimmers silver as glossy black pilot whales gently break the surface before submerging, just as effortlessly. I'm here for a wellness break and this scene on my last day epitomises the whole experience - a sense of calm washes over all as the whales swim peacefully alongside us.
Like many busy urbanites, I’ve travelled far and wide in search of relaxation. From beachside yoga in Mexico to Mediterranean spa resorts, there’s a growing demand for retreats with so many of us frazzled by the stresses of life and city living. But Madeira is one of those destinations that hides in plain sight - a Portuguese island I thought I knew about, but had somehow never visited. Even my friends can’t pin it down on a map.
Closer to Casablanca than Lisbon, its nearest neighbours are the Canary Islands. But Madeira has something distinct that sets it apart - its sub-tropical southern coast, lush topography and northern cloud-forested mountains are more reminiscent of Brazil or Ecuador than anywhere in Europe. And this is why it’s proving to be the perfect spot for those seeking rest and rejuvenation.
Just over three hours flying from London, and a surprising five-and-a-half from New York, Madeira has an exotic mix. With a year-round temperate climate, lush vegetation and an abundance of fruit, it’s no surprise that the capital, Funchal, got its name from the abundance of wild fennel growing when the first settlers arrived. Madeira itself means wood or forest - and this is immediately apparent when I arrive.
From the top of winding roads and cliff-hewn tunnels, I drive into the green interior, where ancient laurel trees dominate the landscape. Later I taste award-winning, low-alcohol wines and stay at the beautifully situated luxury Terrabona villas near Boaventura. But first, I join a small group at the Yeotown retreat, the first fully dedicated wellness centre in Madeira.
The centre's mantra is ‘strong in body, clear in mind’, and it's strategically placed by the Atlantic, amidst breath-taking, hilly scenery, perfect for walks and cold-water immersion. I arrive a day later than other guests, but the atmosphere is still calming. I'm handed a little brown bag containing the most delicious vegetarian lunch I’ve ever eaten, plus a scrumptious organic apple.
We take a joyful jeep tour with Bravelanders through thick forest to arrive at jaw-dropping coastal cliffs, and then Olga, a Yeotown therapist, guides us through calming breathwork and meditation in the protected UNESCO Laurissilva Forest. When she plays her violin, a light breeze emanates from nowhere, and waterfall-like tree fronds flow in harmony with her.
Returning to Yeotown for an invigorating sound bath, the resonant tones of the instruments vibrate through each of us. Then we are taken separately for massages - the menu ranges from energetic Thai to a more gentle, Hawaiian style with oils.
We then dine alfresco, surrounded by candles and garlands, seated on floor cushions on the grass. By now we’re firm friends, and we drink kombucha with lemon slices, which enhances the flavours of the seafood and accompanying pineapple and vegetables.
Yeotown’s ethos is to nurture and nourish, and I feel revitalised by the end of my stay. But Madeira itself is the perfect spot for relaxation - with a small population of under 270,000, it still feels relatively undiscovered. Like a remote utopia, or even something mythical like Brigadoon, it appears only intermittently for preservation’s sake. Ah, now maybe that’s why so few people know where to find it!
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