June 22nd 2024.
As we reached the viewpoint of the Vikos Gorge, we were all in awe of the magnificent sight before us. After a long hike, it was time for a well-deserved break and some ice cream. Our guide, Alex, had a glint in his eye as he said, "When the West was discovering desserts, we in Greece were already diabetic."
For many Brits, Greece has become the go-to destination for a Mediterranean escape. The slow, sun-drenched lifestyle centered around food is a much-needed break from the dreary greyness of our home. However, with the rise of island tourism, it's easy to think that Greece is just about beaches and parties.
That's why I was drawn to Zagori, located in the north west of Greece. I wanted to experience a different side of Greece, one that challenges the image of island-hopping and partying that social media often portrays. After a four-hour drive from Thessaloniki airport, we left behind the commercialized Greece and entered the heart of the country: its stunning mountains.
As we drove through snow-capped peaks and miles of untouched forest, we arrived at the tranquil village of Aristi. Our home for the next four days was the Aristi Mountain Resort, a beautiful hotel made from traditional Zagori stone and designed like a cozy Alpine chalet. The resort was surrounded by towering cliffs, and in the morning, a sea of clouds covered the village below.
My friend and I were speechless as we stepped out onto our balcony and took in the breathtaking view. "I don't think I've ever experienced such peace and quiet," my friend said. That's the beauty of Zagori, it's a world away from the bustling beaches of Santorini and the grand temples of Athens. Here, in the mountains, lies a different Greece, one that is rich in history and serenity.
Over 2,500 years ago, Zagori was part of the ancient kingdom of Molossoi. Archaeologists have even found evidence of inhabitants from the Ice Age. The villages in this region are connected by a network of stone-arched bridges and staircases, with modern accommodations built in a similar style, blending seamlessly into the mountains. Staying here gives you a sense of history and adventure.
There's no shortage of activities for the adrenaline junkies in Zagori. We booked a thrilling rafting experience with a local company, Trekking Hellas, for only €40 per person. The Voidomatis river boasted stunning natural beauty, with white cliffs and drooping trees along the river banks.
For those who prefer to stay on land, there are plenty of hiking trails to explore. From casual strolls to more challenging routes, all offer breathtaking views. We hiked from the village of Papingo to the Voidomatis Springs and back up the gorge to Vikos village. The trails were clearly marked, but we also had the option to hire a guide from Trekking Hellas.
Our guide, Alex, told us that the Vikos Gorge is known as the "Grand Canyon of Europe." And it's easy to see why. The towering cliffs reached up to 1,350m in depth, just a few hundred meters short of the Grand Canyon's deepest point. But instead of dusty rocks, we were greeted with lush greenery and monasteries built by the waterfront.
The villages in Zagori each have their own unique charm, all built with the distinctive white stone. Quaint cafes serve delectable cakes, and cobbled streets wind their way up every hilltop. Back at Aristi Mountain Resort, we indulged in some R&R at the spa, which included a swimming pool, jacuzzi, steam room, and massage room.
No visit to Zagori would be complete without trying the delicious traditional food of the region. Salvia restaurant, available to all hotel guests, offers a mouth-watering selection of Greek dishes. Some were familiar, while others were new and exciting, like the creamy Trahanas and the Soutzoukakia, a flavorful meat dish in a tomato and cumin sauce.
But the real culinary highlight was the "Mushroom restaurant," Kanela & Garyfallo, in the picturesque village of Vitsa. The menu featured a full page of dishes made from locally grown mushrooms, including desserts. The head chef, Vassilis Katsoupas, was passionate about each dish and explained how the mix of spices brought out the unique flavors of each mushroom. I highly recommend trying the mushroom omelette and the chestnut soup, and stepping out of your comfort zone to try the caramelised chanterelles dessert.
Zagori is a place unlike any other, with its unique charm and tranquility. It's the perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life and immerse yourself in nature. As we sat with our ice cream, admiring the Vikos Gorge, we chatted with Alex about the history of Zagori. He told us that despite the different people who have passed through, the culture and way of life here remain slow and peaceful. "It's why I love it here," he said with a twinkle in his eye. And after experiencing the beauty of Zagori, I couldn't agree more.
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