December 25th 2024.
Written by Brigid Ransome Washington for The New York Times, most condiments have a clear understanding of their role - to enhance without stealing the spotlight. However, in Trinidad and Tobago, one particular condiment takes center stage - chow chow. This vibrant, citrine-colored relish, packed with spices and vegetables, is a key component of the local cuisine.
At the heart of chow chow is mustard, which is combined with a medley of fruits, vegetables, and aromatics such as carrots, bell peppers, bitter melon, pineapple, mangoes, papaya, ginger, cloves, onions, and garlic. The result is a bold and complex flavor that pairs perfectly with baked ham. To add a fiery kick, Scotch bonnet chiles are often added.
The tradition of eating chow chow on Christmas morning has been passed down through generations in Trinidad. Chef Osei Blackett, who grew up on the island, remembers gathering with loved ones at his grandmother's house, where she would serve a spread of clove-studded ham, hops bread, and of course, chow chow. According to Blackett, Christmas breakfast just wouldn't be the same without it.
For Natasha Laggan, a Trinidadian cook known as @TriniCookingWithNatasha on social media, chow chow is a must-have with ham on Christmas. She passes down this tradition to her 8-year-old son, AJ, saying, "How could I not?" Despite its prevalence during the holiday season, the origins of chow chow are uncertain. Some believe it is a descendant of English piccalilli, a pickled relish with South Asian influences.
The inclusion of tropical fruits and vegetables makes chow chow distinctly Caribbean. This fusion of flavors is what makes it a staple during the holiday season in Trinidad and Tobago. For Blackett, it brings back fond memories of his grandmother's Christmas spread - warm freshly baked bread, salty ham, and tangy chow chow. The combination was simply unbeatable, and he eagerly looked forward to enjoying it every year.
For those looking to recreate this Caribbean delight at home, here is a recipe for pineapple chow chow. This quicker stovetop version skips the overnight brining process and incorporates canned pineapple for added sweetness and texture. The result is a bright and flavorful relish that pairs perfectly with ham and hops bread on Christmas morning.
In a saucepan over medium-high heat, combine apple cider vinegar, pineapple juice, brown sugar, kosher salt, turmeric, onion powder, garlic powder, cinnamon, and cloves. Add minced ginger, garlic, habanero chile, carrot, cauliflower, and onion. Let the mixture cook for 7-8 minutes until the vegetables are slightly tender. Then add red bell pepper, green beans, chopped pineapple, Dijon mustard, and yellow mustard and cook for an additional 3-4 minutes. Finally, add a slurry of cornstarch and water to thicken the chow chow. Serve at room temperature and store any leftovers in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.
In addition to this delicious recipe, we have more holiday-inspired recipes on our website. From King Arthur Baking Company's Caramelized Apple and Honey Challah to a foolproof prime rib recipe, we have you covered for all your Christmas dinner needs. And don't forget to subscribe to our weekly newsletter, In The Know, for the latest entertainment news delivered straight to your inbox. Happy cooking!
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