October 4th 2024.
In the bustling city of Edinburgh, a new trend has taken over - artisan bakeries. Social media has played a huge role in their success, with long queues forming outside their doors. But for Maltese baker Matthew Mallia, owner of Hobz, going viral was never the goal.
Hobz, named after the Maltese word for bread, specializes in baking naturally fermented bread. Despite being recognized as one of the best in the world, Matthew remains focused on creating a neighborhood spot with an open plan layout and loyal customers. He has no interest in chasing trends or following the latest fads.
"I wanted Hobz to showcase the authenticity of a bakery by making everything on site. Our customers can see everything being made right in front of them," Matthew explains. "At heart, we are a small neighborhood bakery and we are happy being just that. While we do have plans for the future, our main focus is on building a strong community of regulars, some of whom visit us multiple times a day. We don't need to rely on trends or false hype to succeed. We bake what we want to bake, without trying to go viral."
Matthew's love for baking started at a young age, with fond memories of being in the kitchen with his mom. "I can vaguely recall making cupcakes with my mom when I was just four or five years old," he reminisces. "They were a pre-mix that came with edible paper featuring cartoon characters - not exactly skilled baking, but it sparked my interest nonetheless. My mom was not the best baker, but she always involved me whenever she made a cake. My favorite cake is still a Betty Crocker Chocolate Fudge Cake with Nutella-based icing and smarties on top. Thankfully, my mom always supported my baking adventures, even when it meant making a mess in the kitchen."
For a while, Matthew considered opening a cake shop, but as he got older, his interest shifted to helping his dad make pizzas in their wood-fired oven. He also enjoyed making cookies and pies for family gatherings. However, baking took a back seat during his teenage years as he pursued an academic career. But in 2020, Matthew began to fall out of love with academia and turned back to his passion for baking.
He taught himself how to bake bread and even took a 12-week diploma course in patisserie. Soon, he started selling his loaves online, waiting in the Meadows for hours in freezing snow for customers to pick up their orders. "I was making more bread than I could eat, so I started having a weekly bake sale and selling my loaves online to locals who would pick up their orders on Saturdays," Matthew shares. As demand grew, he began setting up stands at markets, working tirelessly to prepare and bake bread and pastries before packing them up and heading to the market in the early hours of the morning.
Eventually, Matthew decided to open a physical store on Leith Walk in 2021, and it has been a huge success. He now serves 1,000 customers a week, many of whom are regulars and visit multiple times a day. When asked if he draws inspiration from his home country of Malta, Matthew acknowledges that sesame is a popular ingredient in Maltese baking, and they often incorporate it into their bread. He also mentions making cannolis, a common treat in Malta that he grew up eating. However, he notes that it is nearly impossible to make a living from artisan bread making in Malta and that there are no sustainable producers of naturally leavened Maltese bread.
Despite this, Matthew and his team draw inspiration from their Maltese roots in their baking. They take pride in their small-batch, artisanal approach and are grateful for the community they have built in Edinburgh. As Matthew continues to grow and expand his business, he remains true to his passion for baking and his desire to create a neighborhood spot where people can enjoy delicious, authentic bread. Stay tuned for more insights from producers like Matthew in our Producer's Corner, and don't forget to subscribe to Scottish Field to read the latest issue.
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