December 19th 2024.
Fettercairn Distillery has a long and storied history, much like the exquisite whisky it produces. Founded in 1824 by Sir Alexander Ramsay, a landowner and businessman, the distillery was one of the first to obtain a license to produce whisky. Sir Alexander had campaigned for regulation in the industry, but unfortunately faced financial difficulties and had to sell his estate and the distillery. It was then acquired by the Gladstone Family, which included a familiar name in the Scotch Whisky Industry - William Gladstone, who served as the British Prime Minister from 1868 to 1894. The distillery changed hands a few more times before finally becoming a part of Whyte & Mackay's portfolio in 1973.
Today, Fettercairn Distillery boasts a core range of whiskies, including the 12, 16, and 24-year-olds, as well as limited releases and rare bottlings. In 2024, the distillery celebrated its 200th anniversary with the release of an ultra-rare collection of six malts, with only ten sets available to the world. We had the opportunity to sit down with Stewart Walker, the Distillery Manager, and chat about his career, inspirations, favorite drams, and his day-to-day life at Fettercairn.
Stewart has been a part of the Fettercairn family for over three decades, honing his craft under the guidance of Master Whisky Makers. He has been instrumental in shaping the distillery's modern approach to whisky making. For him, a career highlight was the introduction of the 200th Anniversary Collection, which includes six remarkable single malts ranging from three to 60 years old. These whiskies, with a combined age of 200 years, tell an important part of Fettercairn's story. Only ten sets of the collection were released worldwide, each housed in a handmade Scottish oak cabinet, crafted from wood sourced from the distillery's estate.
When asked about his journey into the world of distilling, Stewart shared that he initially started his career in farming. But when a job as a warehouse man at Fettercairn Distillery opened up, he jumped at the opportunity. Over the years, he has held various production roles, from mashman to stillman, and eventually became the distillery manager in 2015. Whisky has always held a special place in Stewart's heart, and he takes great pride in crafting something uniquely Scottish that is enjoyed all over the world.
Joining the team at Fettercairn, Stewart was inspired to continue the legacy of whisky making from the generations before him. He humbly stated that he doesn't "run" the distillery, but rather looks after it for the next generation to take the reins. A typical day in the life of a Fettercairn distiller is anything but typical. Stewart's role involves acting as a guardian for the precious spirits maturing in the distillery's 14 dunnage warehouses. But he also spends time in the visitor center, welcoming guests and showing them around the distillery. He also represents Fettercairn at various whisky events around the world, sharing his passion and knowledge of their exciting single malt.
When asked about what he wants people to know about Fettercairn whisky, Stewart highlighted the distillery's ethos of doing things differently and constantly asking "what if?" In the 1950s, this curiosity led to the addition of cooling rings on each of their stills, creating a lighter spirit. These cooling rings, which are still used today, drench the stills with fresh mountain water, allowing only the lightest vapors to rise. This innovation gives Fettercairn whisky its distinctly tropical house style.
One of the most exciting parts of Stewart's job is stepping into the warehouses and enjoying the beautiful aromas before nosing and sampling the whisky. The most mundane part, on the other hand, is the paperwork. His first whisky experience was a blended malt shared with his childhood friends, and although it wasn't the best dram, it sparked his interest in trying different whiskies. Over the years, his palate has been honed by his time at Fettercairn.
Stewart believes that there is a whisky for everyone and that all whiskies have a home. For him, there is no such thing as a "bad" whisky. His go-to dram is the 12-year-old Fettercairn, which showcases their house style of tropical fruit with hints of soft spice. And for a special treat, he would choose the 18-year-old Fettercairn, with its golden amber color and layered flavors of patisserie spices, sugars, passion fruit, and guava.
When asked about his favorite dram at Fettercairn, Stewart's answer was the 28-year-old expression. He described its unique depth of flavor, with hints of warm ginger and liquorice complementing the signature tropical notes. And for him, there's nothing more special than sharing a dram of the 28-year-old with friends and family to mark a special occasion. Currently, he is enjoying the Aberlour A'bunadh, a Speyside whisky with smooth fruitiness and intense notes. He is also a fan of the whiskies from Nc'nean, an organic single malt distillery on the West Coast of Scotland.
In conclusion, Stewart shared his love for the simplicity of his job, such as stepping into the warehouses and enjoying the aromas of the maturing whisky. He finds it incredibly rewarding to know that every barrel contains whisky that they have created, slowly maturing and taking on the flavors of their Highland home. And for him, whisky is more than just a drink; it creates memories and brings people together.
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