I've traveled to 50 countries, but there's only one I won't go back to.

November 18th 2024.

I've traveled to 50 countries, but there's only one I won't go back to.
As someone who has traveled to 50 different countries, I have come to realize that there are wonderful people everywhere you go. This realization first began when I was a child and my favorite toy was a cerulean globe. This globe was not just any ordinary toy, as it would speak to me and ignite my imagination about the vast and wondrous world we live in.

With just the touch of a button, my globe would come to life and challenge me to locate far-flung cities with an interactive pen. I remember my stubby seven-year-old fingers feverishly flitting across the Earth, trying to find places like Antananarivo and Ulaanbataar before the timer ran out. It may have cost my parents the equivalent of £30, but that globe sparked a passion for travel that has enriched my life in ways that money cannot buy.

From a young age, I made a vow to myself that I would visit every country in the world. Although I haven't won the lottery in the intervening years, I have managed to visit 50 out of the 195 currently recognized countries. My addiction to exploration has taken me to extraordinary places, from the turquoise-domed mosques of Uzbekistan to the red center of Australia.

However, out of all the countries I have visited, there is one that I have no desire to return to: Qatar. Let me explain why.

The first hint that Doha, the capital of Qatar, was not my kind of city was the silence. It was a particular kind of silence, one that hung in the air of an empty street. Despite the lines of luxury cars, including custom Rolls Royces and cherry red Maseratis, running down the broad boulevards, the sidewalks were empty. This was because nobody walks on the streets of Qatar.

Growing up an only child, my favourite toy was a cerulean globe that spoke to me about our vast and wondrous world. With the touch of a button, my prized possession sprang to life and demanded I locate far-flung cities with an interactive pen, my stubby seven-year-old fingers feverishly flitting across the Earth to stab Antananarivo and Mongolia's Ulaanbataar before the timer ran out. It cost my parents the present-day equivalent of £30, but that globe sparked a passion for travel that would enrich my life in ways money cannot buy. Before I could spell many of their names, I vowed that I would visit every country in the world. I haven't won the lottery in the intervening years. And so, allowing for budget constraints and having just turned 31, my tally sits at 50 of the 195 currently recognized countries. My addiction to exploration has taken me to extraordinary places, from the turquoise-domed mosques of Uzbekistan to Australia's red center. Along this journey, there's only one country I have no desire to return to: Qatar.

The streets of Doha were deserted when we explored the city in May 2024. My 6’5 Devon-born boyfriend and I were the only ones walking on the streets, attracting incredulous glances through tinted car windows as we ambled along in +30°C early summer temperatures. We soon learned that walking in Doha only happens in shopping malls and hotels. I asked a waiter if anyone ever goes for a stroll on the streets, to which he replied, "If you can drive, why walk?"

This driving-centric culture makes the aesthetically impressive metropolis seem cold and clinical, like a desert sea of skyscrapers with little life around them. The only people on the streets are construction workers, their heads covered with cloth to fend off the sun.

Even Doha's port, where rows of long tourist boats commissioned for the 2022 World Cup float idle, is deserted. Qatar's hosting of the tournament was controversial, with critics pointing to the country's alleged human and LGBTQ+ rights violations. We were approached by a lone tour guide who asked if he could take us across the water, gesturing to an empty boat big enough to fit at least three dozen people.

The scene was similarly dystopian in the Souk Waqif, a traditional market ranked as one of Doha's top attractions. I couldn't wait to shop there, as it's said to date back to the 19th century. However, the sandstone alleyways have been modernized so much that they feel like a sterile version of Disneyland. Compared to the vibrant bazaars of Jerusalem and Marrakech, it's just a little soulless.

Underwhelmed by Doha, we took a taxi 20km north to Lusail, Qatar's second-largest municipality built on reclaimed land that curls along the Persian Gulf. The cities are so close that it's almost impossible to tell where one ends and the other begins, that is until you reach Katara Towers. This imposing building is in the shape of crossed scimitars, which is also the country's national crest.

The 300,000 square metre structure, which took five years to build, is home to a pair of luxury hotels, the Fairmont and the Raffles. The opulence is astonishing, with squares of 18-karat gold flushed into the walls and the world's biggest chandelier towering 56 meters high, glimmering above you. If you're looking to be dazzled, this is the place. But after returning to our much less lavish accommodation, I couldn't help but wonder what life is like in Qatar behind the glamour.

We found ourselves in Qatar by accident, after a missed connection left us stranded there for 24 hours. As someone who loves the Middle East more than any other region on Earth, I was excited to experience a new country without a plan. And there's no question that some of what we saw was truly magnificent.

Doha's crown jewel has to be its Museum of Islamic Art, a spectacular white structure that houses an extraordinary collection of gems and artefacts from across the Islamic world. Opened in 2008, the building itself is an architectural marvel, designed by the late Chinese architect I.M. Pei who came out of retirement for the task. Many hours could be spent at the museum, but outside its four walls, Doha left me cold. Perhaps I needed more time to explore, enough to join a dune buggy tour in the desert or dine with a Qatari family to see through the eyes of a local. Despite reaching out to Visit Qatar for comment on what we may have missed, they did not respond.

While every country has its unique stories and traditions, Qatar is no different. I'm sure many others would love it, but as someone with the ambition to visit all 195 countries the world has to offer, I have to draw the line at some point. Next up for me? Lithuania, which my cerulean globe tells me has a capital called Vilnius to explore.

In my travels, I have come to learn that there are some countries that have so much to offer, one visit would never be enough. Italy, with its mountains and lakes in the north and islands and ancient history in the south, is deserving of more trips than I can afford. Australia, Canada, and New Zealand boast landscapes that could be explored for decades. Uzbekistan and the Philippines are home to some of the kindest people I've ever met.

Each country has its own unique beauty and charm, and I have no doubt that Qatar has its own as well. However, for me, it's one country that I have no desire to return to. My globe may have sparked my passion for travel, but it has also taught me an invaluable lesson: there are wonderful people everywhere you go.

As someone who has visited 50 countries, I have had the opportunity to experience some of the best the world has to offer. I have compiled a list of the top places I have been to, based on my personal experiences.

Best beach? That's impossible to choose just one. Some of my favorites include Port Barton in the Philippines, Porto Katsiki on Lefkada island in Greece, and Whitehaven Beach in the Whitsundays, Queensland, Australia.

When it comes to the best sunset, I have to give the title to Sun Siyam Vilu Reef, in the Maldives' South Nilandhe Atoll.

For a summer city break, I highly recommend Berlin, Athens, and New York. These cities have so much to offer in terms of history, culture, and entertainment.

In the winter, Stockholm, Sweden is the perfect city break destination. I suggest visiting between Christmas and New Year and indulging in the art of fika, a Swedish tradition of taking a break for coffee and pastries.

If you're looking for the best spa experience, I highly recommend Rosa Bonheur in Marrakech, Morocco. It's a beautiful and tranquil oasis where you can relax and rejuvenate.

For those interested in history, anywhere in southern Italy is a must-visit. The rich history and ancient ruins are truly captivating.

When it comes to the best nightlife, I have to give a tie between Chicago, Illinois and Melbourne, Australia. Both cities have a vibrant atmosphere and endless options for entertainment.

For the best restaurant, I have to give the title to Melbourne, Australia. The food scene there is diverse and top-notch.

And lastly, for the best pub experience, I highly recommend visiting Ireland. From local pubs to famous breweries, Ireland has some of the best beer and pub culture in the world.

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