I learned to row in Venice and explored the city from a new perspective.

Found out the pleasure of small Italian snacks called cicchetti.

March 29th 2023.

I learned to row in Venice and explored the city from a new perspective.
Mary Novakovich endeavors to master Venetian rowing, 'Put your whole body into it. You don't need powerful arms, it's all in the wrists.' I'm swaying on a flat bottomed wooden Venetian vessel, firmly gripping an oar in each hand, endeavoring to manage this gorgeous boat without falling into the canal. Nan McElroy is behind me and I'm in the center, getting a speedy course in 'voga alla veneta' - Venice's customary shape of rowing, which has nothing to do with serenading gondoliers advertising to travelers.





(Image Source: https://metro.co.uk)

I'm on a 'batela coda di gambero', which was ubiquitously seen in Venetian waterways for centuries. When outboard motors showed up, these remarkable wooden boats started to vanish. Just seven copies exist, and four of them are used by the all-female team at Row Venice to demonstrate how to take them down Venice's quietest canals.

Row Venice's originator, Jane Caporal - a Bristolian who came to the city more than 20 years ago and never left - needs to restore Venetians back to rowing.

That is the reason her organization puts its benefits back into financing kids' and women's racing - they are keeping this old tradition alive.

Meanwhile, I'm attempting not to lose my balance. Venetian canals are commonly only a few feet profound yet the water is icy. Nan shows me the rowing position - one foot planted broadly and strongly in front of the other - and how to delicately turn the oar to get energy. To my shock, I rapidly get the hang of it.



(Image Source: https://metro.co.uk)

The unmistakable Grand Canal

What an adrenaline rush. I'm seeing Venice as I've never observed it before. We're coasting down a nearly empty channel in Cannaregio as the late evening light blurs, cherishing the harmony that is a world away from the disarray of Piazza San Marco.



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Mary Novakovich is mastering Venetian rowing ‘Put your whole body into it. You don't need powerful arms, it's all in the wrists.’ I'm standing shakily on a flat-bottomed wooden Venetian boat, holding an oar in both hands, trying to obey Nan McElroy's instructions on how to steer this beautiful vessel without tumbling into the canal. She's in the back and I'm in the center, obtaining a crash course in 'voga alla veneta' - Venice's traditional form of rowing, which has nothing to do with crooning gondoliers fishing for vacationers.

I'm on a 'batela coda di gambero', which were seen all over Venetian waters for centuries. But when outboard motors appeared, these exquisite wooden boats began to vanish. Only seven replicas exist, and four are used by the all-female staff at Row Venice to educate people how to navigate them along Venice's most tranquil canals.

Row Venice's inventor, Jane Caporal - a Bristolian who came to the city more than 20 years ago and has never left - wants to get Venetians in particular rowing again. That's why her business reinvests its profits into sponsoring women's and children's racing - they are keeping this old custom alive.

Meanwhile, I'm trying not to lose my balance. Venetian canals are usually only a few feet deep but the water is icy cold. Nan demonstrates me the rowing position - one foot planted broadly and firmly in front of the other - and how to rotate the oar lightly to get thrust. Surprisingly, I quickly get the hang of it.



The instantly recognisable Grand Canal

And what an exhilaration. I'm seeing Venice like never before. We're gliding along a nearly empty canal in Cannaregio as the late afternoon light fades, enjoying the serenity that's a world away from the mania of Piazza San Marco.

More: Travel

(Image Source: https://metro.co.uk)



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