June 11th 2024.
When Scott Smith first opened Fhior in 2018, his goal was clear - to showcase the best of Scottish produce. And since then, the restaurant has gained a solid reputation, although it hasn't quite reached the status of a Michelin-starred establishment. But with his latest ten-course tasting menu, which boasts a complex and impressive array of dishes, the Aberdonian chef is definitely pushing for that coveted recognition.
Fhior exudes a classic and sophisticated vibe, with its clean lines, white walls, and sandblasted wooden floors. And on the evening of our visit, the restaurant was bustling with diners - quite a feat for a midweek night in June, even in the vibrant city of Edinburgh. Of course, the ten-course tasting menu comes with a hefty price tag of £130, with an additional £110 for the wine pairing. But for the quality and creativity of the food, it's certainly worth it.
It seems that there's a wave of new and upcoming restaurants in Edinburgh, such as Lyla, Eorna, Montrose, Eleanore, Avery, and Cardinal, all vying for a Michelin star. And Fhior, which means "true" in Gaelic, definitely fits into this category, with its ambitious and innovative menu, even if it's not a new establishment.
Our experience began with two delightful canapes - a hash brown topped with Japanese radish and kohlrabi, and a trout and crab roe combination with cucumber, apple, elderflower, and a variety of other ingredients. It was evident from the start that each dish would be small in size, packed with multiple ingredients, and bursting with an array of flavors that sometimes clashed in the most delightful way.
And indeed, each course lived up to this expectation. The venison, for instance, was served with a sourdough crumb, molasses, and a wild salad featuring seven different ingredients, including purslane and sweet cicely. Trying to identify all the elements in each small dish felt like solving a challenging sudoku puzzle, but it was impossible not to appreciate the chef's ambition and skill.
As we progressed through the meal, we savored dishes like beetroot with shrimp head and sorrel, asparagus with sunflower seeds, trout, potato, miso sauce, and wild garlic, and Pittenweem crab with Japanese radish and a sauce made with brown crab meat, mint, lime zest, and chili. The scallop dish, with its pine and kohlrabi accompaniments, was perhaps the simplest but most enjoyable of the meal. And the intricate dishes featuring turbot and duck, with their multitude of ingredients, were a testament to the chef's culinary prowess.
As we reached the end of our gastronomic journey, we were treated to a cheese and onion tart, followed by a dish of cherry blossom and rowan, and finally, a delightful concoction of strawberry, goat's curd, and molasses. Our minds were blown by the explosion of flavors in each dish.
We initially declined the wine pairing but were convinced by our charming Canadian sommelier, Phil, to give it a try. And we were not disappointed. Unlike some recent experiences where the focus on organic wines compromised the quality and variety, the paired wines at Fhior were impeccable. Our waitress also deserves a special mention for her fantastic service, expertly describing the numerous ingredients in each dish.
As we were finishing our meal, we overheard a conversation between two businessmen at the next table, both in their thirties and well-traveled. They were clearly on a business trip, and one of them remarked that this was the best meal he had had since a memorable experience at a restaurant in San Francisco. And his companion wholeheartedly agreed.
Overall, our meal at Fhior was a remarkable display of technical skill, with each dish striving for unique flavor profiles and exciting combinations. While personally, I may prefer simpler dishes with bolder flavors, there's no denying that Scott Smith and his team at Fhior are operating at a level that deserves recognition. And I, for one, hope that they will receive the recognition they deserve.
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