September 5th 2024.
As the Tyrrhenian Sea sparkled beneath us, I couldn't help but feel like I was in a movie. And according to my tour guide Michelangelo, that wasn't too far from the truth. He was a true Amalfi local, born and raised in the area, and he was full of fascinating stories about the old Hollywood history that permeated the Amalfi Coast.
We were cruising along the Tyrrhenian Sea, passing by the 13 main towns that make up the famously luxurious 50km Italian coastline. Each port we passed had its own unique story to tell. For example, in Ravello, it was said that actress Greta Garbo and conductor Leopold Stokowski had an affair. And in Positano, celebrities like Liza Minnelli and Tennessee Williams had stayed.
But perhaps the most scandalous story of all was the infamous love affair between Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. The Vatican even branded it as "erotic vagrancy" after they had a tryst while filming Cleopatra in Italy. And rumor has it that their favorite holiday spot was the Hotel Santa Caterina in Amalfi, which has been in operation for over 120 years.
I was lucky enough to stay at this iconic hotel for four days and three nights at the end of October, which is considered the low season for the Amalfi Coast. But don't let that discourage you from planning a trip during this time – there is still so much to see and do, and the crowds are much smaller than during the high tourist season between June and August.
After arriving at Naples airport on a Sunday morning, it took us about an hour and a half to drive through winding cliffs to reach Amalfi. As we checked into the Hotel Santa Caterina, I was immediately struck by the stunning panoramic views of the sea from the balcony. It was the perfect spot to enjoy an Aperol spritz and soak in the warm sun and cool sea breeze.
But that wasn't the only amazing view I was treated to during my stay. My room also had a beautiful seafront balcony with private seating, and a bathroom bigger than my entire living room back in East London. And to top it all off, the hotel had left a small selection of sweet treats for me, including chocolate-covered strawberries, cakes, and macarons.
And the incredible food didn't stop there. The Hotel Santa Caterina has two restaurants – the beachfront Al Mare and the Michelin-starred Glicine. I had the chance to dine at both, and the food was simply exquisite. At Al Mare, I ordered the spaghetti with lemon cream sauce, paired with a crisp locally-sourced Marisa Cuomo white wine and a decadent tiramisu for dessert. And at Glicine, I indulged in a ever-changing tasting menu by chef Giuseppe Stanzione, which included a smoked risotto with scampi and lemon, seared veal fillet, and a selection of rich desserts.
But the hotel wasn't the only highlight of my trip. There was so much to do and see in Amalfi, from the cooking class at the Amalfi Lemon Experience – a family-run business tucked into the mountains where you can learn to make traditional dishes like lemon pasta and cake – to exploring the town's streets and shops, and taking in the breathtaking views of the coast.
For a more weather-dependent activity, the Hotel Santa Caterina can help arrange a private boat tour with a guide who will share even more stories and history about the Amalfi Coast. Sipping on a glass of fizz, I was able to see sites like Fiordo di Furore and the former home of Sophia Loren in the distance.
But Amalfi isn't just a destination for the rich and famous. As I discovered, there are plenty of budget-friendly options for those looking to experience the beauty of this famous coastline without breaking the bank.
For example, the Fiordo di Furore beach is completely free to visit, and it's not your typical sandy beach. It's a stretch of water that carves its way through two sheer rock faces and opens into the sea – a truly breathtaking sight. And for a small entrance fee, you can visit the stunning Roman Catholic cathedral, Duomo di Amalfi, which dominates the town's main square and features a Cloister of Paradise and a Basilica of the Crucifix dating back to the 6th century.
If you're in the mood for some shopping, be sure to check out the Ruga Nova Mercatorum, a bustling street filled with boutiques, street vendors, and street performers. And don't forget to try some of the local specialties, like the gourmet paninis at Luisa Gastronomia Artigianale or the lemon sorbets and ice cream at Cioccolato e Gelato Andrea Pansa.
But perhaps the best advice I received during my trip was from Michelangelo, who told me to slow down and relax like the locals do. And he was right – there's no need to rush in Amalfi. Take the time to soak in the sun, try the delicious food, and embrace the beauty and charm of this small Italian town. After all, even Hollywood celebrities deserve to experience the A-list luxury treatment in Amalfi.
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