September 22nd 2023.
Designer Brands Inc, a world-renowned footwear and accessories collective, have recently announced the future release of the FIRST JEM as part of their JEMS by PENSOLE brand. This is also the first item released by one of America's first and only Black-owned footwear factories, which was established in New Hampshire earlier this year.
This factory was created with the mission of building spaces within the industry that promote and champion Black designers and manufacturers. This mission is reflected in the FIRST JEM, which takes inspiration from a marginalized but widely impactful Black designer, Jan Ernst Matzeliger. His initials were also used in the company's naming, and the shoe was released on his birthday, Sept. 15, to further honor his influence on design.
The shoe design includes hand-crafted leather and The Lasting Machine on the sock liner, while the JEMS badge logo is shaped like a diamond to pay homage to Matzeliger's legacy. Designer Brands President Bill Jordan shared their excitement over the shoe and the new brand's launch, saying, “Diversity drives innovation and brings new thinking, designs, and products to consumers, yet Black representation sits at less than 5% across all design industries. We’re excited to partner with Dr. Edwards on the JEMS by PENSOLE line. FIRST JEM is just the beginning step in our goal to forge entrepreneurial opportunities for underrepresented footwear designers and make their vision and designs accessible to our customers at DSW stores.”
The FIRST JEM shoe is sold exclusively at DSW, with expansion toward in-store purchasing to be included in future collections. With the inclusion of household names such as Keds, Lucky Brand, and Vince Camuto in Designer Brands' expansive portfolio, this venture prioritizes designers of color and grants opportunities to improve equity in the footwear industry.
The release of the FIRST JEM is a monumental step towards recognizing the legacy of marginalized Black designers, and a move towards more equitable representation in the footwear industry. Through this collaboration, Designer Brands and Pensole Lewis College of Business & Design are championing designers of color and creating opportunities for them to make their vision and designs more accessible to the public.
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