A polar expedition that reached -15°C made me cry for a surprising cause.

I saw the elusive Northern Lights too.

November 10th 2024.

A polar expedition that reached -15°C made me cry for a surprising cause.
After living in London for 10 years and constantly struggling with the chaos of the city, I decided to take a few days off and escape to Finland. I have spent a lot of money on therapy to improve my mental wellbeing, but little did I know that all I needed was a little bit of ‘sisu’, the only Finnish word I knew before boarding my Finnair flight from Heathrow to Helsinki. Sisu is a way of life that has been ingrained into Finnish culture for over 500 years, combining resilience and determination. It has no direct translation in English, but locals explained to me that it means striving towards the best and finding purpose in life, rather than just overcoming suffering.

My main goal for this trip was to see the Northern Lights, a bucket list achievement I have been dreaming of for years. I arrived in Ruka Kuusamo, a town known for its stunning landscapes and Finnish sauna experiences. Like most tourists, I was hoping to witness the Aurora Borealis, also known as the ‘Fox Fires’ by locals. However, I tried not to get my hopes up too high as I have heard that sightings can be unpredictable.

As we landed on the ‘mini’ plane from Helsinki to Ruka Kuusamo, a member of my group told me that she had visited the region eight times before and had never seen the Northern Lights. But as soon as we dropped off our luggage at the cozy Rukan Salonki villa, I received a notification from a Northern Lights app on my phone. I quickly bundled up in as many layers as possible and rushed outside, feeling a sense of anticipation in the stillness of the air.

Just as doubt started to creep in, a faint glow appeared in the sky. It was so subtle at first, teasing its way through the darkness of the night. I couldn't help but hold my breath as I watched the colors shift and shimmer above me. The display grew more intense, with shades of emerald green, illuminous yellow, and even hints of pink and violet dancing in the sky. It was a mesmerizing sight, like a window into another world. The group stood in silence, not wanting to ruin the moment, and it almost felt like a spiritual experience. I went to bed that night with a smile on my face, feeling grateful for the unforgettable evening.

The next day, I had the opportunity to meet Lapland's famous reindeers at the Palosaari Reindeer and Fishing Farm. Satu, the sixth-generation reindeer herder and my guide for the visit, greeted me with the gentle sound of hooves on the snow-covered ground. As I fed the creatures their favorite snack, lichen, she shared stories about their nomadic lifestyle and the history of reindeer husbandry passed down through generations. For Satu and her husband Mika, the reindeers are like their children, and they treat them with the utmost respect and care.

I ended my visit to the farm with a bowl of vegan reindeer soup and bread around the fire, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere and warm conversation with Satu. She explained that for her, the starting point for all activities on the farm is a healthy and happy reindeer whose needs are always respected. It was a heartwarming experience, and I left with a newfound appreciation for these beautiful creatures.

But the highlight of my trip was definitely the deep-snow arctic ski tour. Despite my lack of experience and previous bad memories of skiing, I decided to challenge myself and signed up for the tour. Lotta, the founder and tour-guide at Outdoor Passion Finland, could sense my anxiety and decided to take me under her wing. As we made our way to Valtavaara, one of the highest hills in Kuusamo, Lotta explained the concept of ‘sisu’ to the group. It was a reminder to keep pushing forward and to never give up, even when faced with challenges.

Throughout the tour, I was surrounded by the most majestic nature, with snow-covered trees and a stunning view of the Finnish landscape. Despite my initial fears, I ended up having an amazing time, thanks to Lotta's guidance and the group's support. It was a day filled with laughter, adventure, and a sense of accomplishment.

My trip to Finland was truly a reset from the chaos of London, and I couldn't be more grateful for the experiences and memories I gained. From witnessing the Northern Lights to meeting reindeers and challenging my inner ‘sisu’ on the arctic ski tour, it was a trip that will stay with me forever. And I couldn't help but think that maybe, just maybe, a little bit of ‘sisu’ is all we need to find purpose and happiness in life.
After living in London for the past 10 years and constantly facing chaos, I decided to escape to Finland for a few days in order to reset my mind. I had spent thousands of pounds on therapy to improve my mental wellbeing, but it turns out that what I really needed was a little bit of 'sisu'. This is the only Finnish word that I had managed to learn before boarding my Finnair flight from Heathrow to Helsinki. From what I was told by the locals, 'sisu' is a way of life that has been deeply ingrained in Finnish culture for over 500 years. It combines resilience and determination and has no direct translation in English.

The concept of 'sisu' is not about overcoming suffering, but rather about finding purpose in life and striving towards the best. As someone who has always been intrigued by the idea of 'sisu', I was excited to experience it firsthand during my stay in Finland. One of the items on my bucket list was to see the Northern Lights, and I was hoping that my trip to the town of Ruka Kuusamo would allow me to tick that off. Along with that, I also wanted to experience a traditional Finnish sauna and witness the breathtaking landscapes.

Upon arriving in Ruka Kuusamo, I was greeted by a 'mini' plane that took me from Helsinki to my destination. One of the members of my group had visited the region eight times before, but had never been lucky enough to see the Auroras. Despite this, I remained optimistic and kept my expectations low. However, as soon as I dropped off my luggage at the Rukan Salonki chalet, I received a notification from a Northern Lights app on my phone. Without wasting any time, I bundled up in as many layers as possible and raced outside, feeling a sense of anticipation in the air.

Just when I was starting to doubt if I would actually get to see the Northern Lights, a ghostly glow appeared in the sky. It was so subtle at first, making its way through the darkness of the night. I couldn't help but hold my breath in awe at the sight of it, despite the freezing temperature. Gradually, the display grew more intense, with colors shifting and shimmering in a mesmerizing dance above me. The view was like a window into another world, and the group stood in silence, not wanting to ruin the moment. It almost felt like a spiritual experience. That night, I went to bed with a smile on my face, knowing that it was an evening I would never forget.

The next day, I had the opportunity to meet Lapland's reindeers at Palosaari Reindeer and Fishing Farm. The owner, Satu, who is a sixth-generation reindeer herder, was my guide for the visit. As I fed the gentle creatures lichen - their favorite snack, she shared stories about the nomadic lifestyle of herders and their relationship with the reindeers. It was fascinating to learn about the survival and adaptation skills that have been passed down through generations. For Satu and her husband Mika, the reindeers are like their children and are treated as part of the family. Their main focus is always on the well-being and happiness of the reindeers.

My trip to the farm ended with a bowl of vegan reindeer soup and bread around a cozy fire. Satu explained that this was all part of the experience and poured me another cup of tea. The following day, I decided to challenge my inner 'sisu' by signing up for an arctic ski tour. As someone who has never been very skilled at skiing, I was initially hesitant about the idea. However, Lotta, the founder and tour-guide at Outdoor Passion Finland, noticed my anxiety and took me under her wing. During our three-hour journey to Valtavaara, one of the highest hills in Kuusamo, she explained the concept of 'sisu' to our group.

The majestic nature that surrounded us during the tour was unlike anything I had ever seen before. As I struggled to stay on my skis, I realized that 'sisu' was not just about physical strength, but also about mental strength and determination. It was a challenging yet rewarding experience, and I was grateful to have been able to push myself beyond my comfort zone. My trip to Finland taught me the importance of taking a break from the chaos of everyday life and finding strength and resilience in the little things, like a bit of 'sisu'.

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