November 17th 2024.
There's nothing quite like the mouthwatering taste of authentic Prosciutto di Parma, also known as Parma ham. This Italian delicacy not only satisfies the taste buds, but it also brings in an annual turnover of US$1.6 billion. It's no wonder why it's highly prized by Italians and has a protected status. Only meat that is cured in the northern region of Emilia Romagna, using Italian-grown pork legs, salt, and air, can be certified as authentic by the Parma Ham Consortium.
Tourists from all over the world make their way to this region, not just for the famous Parma ham, but also for other epicurean delights like balsamic vinegar and Parmesan cheese. These food lovers can join guided tours of ham producers and experience the tastiest cuts in their place of origin, bringing in more income for the region.
However, despite its popularity, the ham industry is facing challenges. The warming climate and the spread of viruses affecting pigs are causing significant problems for Italian pork. As a result, it's becoming increasingly difficult to find authentic Parma ham on international dinner plates.
Unlike many modernized meat processing industries, Parma ham production is steeped in history and tradition. At factories like the Slega prosciuttificio, located in the hamlet of Langhirano near the city of Parma, they still follow the same curing methods that date back to Roman times, using local salt to preserve the meat. Stefano Borchini, who runs the factory, learned these techniques from his father at a young age. He recalls his first job was to swat flies when he was just six years old. It's clear that producing Parma ham is more than just a job for him; it's a passion.
Each year, the factory produces around 40,000 to 50,000 legs of ham, all cured in the same exact way. And to ensure the highest quality, they use a needle made from horse bone to test the ham's smell for food safety. Borchini explains that the final stages of the curing process are fine-tuned by opening and closing windows to let in the fresh air on cool nights, just as his father taught him. He believes that it takes just four things to make the perfect Parma ham: meat, salt, time, and air.
The production process and the end product itself attract hundreds of thousands of foodies and curious visitors from all over the world. They come to the area to take food tours and taste not just the famous Parma ham but also other delicacies like Parmiggiano Reggiano, balsamic vinegar from Modena, and local wine. However, the ham industry is facing threats, such as man-made climate change and diseases like African swine fever.
Borchini explains that a few years ago, they had to install air conditioning systems in their curing rooms because the air no longer cools down like it used to. He believes that the change in temperature, just one or two degrees warmer than 15 years ago, has affected the production process. Additionally, African swine fever, a highly contagious virus, has had a significant impact on the industry. Although not harmful to humans, the virus can be spread by people, making it a significant concern for pork producers.
Alberto Cavagnini, a pig farmer from Brescia in the region of Lombardy, has had to cull over 2000 of his pigs after the virus was detected on his farm earlier this year. The government requires the destruction of all animals on farms where the virus is found to prevent its spread. This has resulted in a reduction in pork production and a drastic increase in costs for producers like Cavagnini.
The situation is slowly coming under control, but for some pork producers, it's too late. Almost a dozen pig farms have closed since the virus outbreak, and the European Union has banned pork exports from regions in the swine fever "red zone." This has had a significant impact on the Italian pork industry, which has an annual turnover of around US$9 billion. Exporting pork should account for around US$2 billion, but due to the virus, this has not been possible.
Despite these challenges, Parma ham remains a highly sought-after delicacy, especially for food tourists visiting the region. The steady flow of visitors to the delis and showrooms in Parma and other hamlets like Langhirano is a testament to its popularity. And while they may not be aware of the challenges faced by producers, they are grateful for the opportunity to experience this ancient delicacy.
[This article has been trending online recently and has been generated with AI. Your feed is customized.]
[Generative AI is experimental.]
