October 26th 2024.
A screenshot of Michael Gardner’s Instagram account shows a fearless and skilled climber, whose passion for the mountains was evident in every photo. Tragically, this talented Colorado native met his untimely end while attempting a daring ascent on the Jannu East peak in Nepal. It was his third try at establishing a route on the peak's notoriously challenging north face.
The American Alpine Club paid tribute to Gardner, highlighting the 32-year-old's exceptional qualities that earned him the respect of his peers. They described him as empathetic, enthusiastic, and dedicated to his craft, with a pure motivation and lack of ego that set him apart. While his accomplishments may not have been flashy, his quiet pursuit of the mountains on his own terms left a lasting legacy that will be remembered by those who knew him.
Gardner's love for climbing was instilled in him from a young age, as he followed in his father's footsteps on expeditions around the world. His sponsor, Arc'teryx, remembered him as a consummate outdoorsman and athlete who not only excelled in climbing but also enjoyed skateboarding and skiing. His death on October 8th was a devastating loss for the climbing community.
Gardner's climbing partner, Sam Hennessey, also an accomplished climber, was with him on the fateful day. They had been attempting the challenging north face of Jannu East, which is also known as Kumbhakarna East. During their descent, Gardner fell, and Hennessey was forced to return without him. It was their fourth time attempting the peak and their third try at the north face.
The tragedy of Gardner's death was made even more poignant by the fact that his father had also lost his life in a climbing accident when Gardner was only 16 years old. He leaves behind a grieving mother and sister, who were his biggest supporters. Gardner's passion for climbing and his determination to push himself to new heights will be remembered by all who knew him.
As Colorado mourns the loss of one of its native sons, the climbing community is reminded of the risks and dangers that come with this extreme sport. But for those who love climbing, the thrill and sense of accomplishment that come with conquering a peak are worth the risk. Michael Gardner lived his life to the fullest, following his passion and inspiring others to do the same. May his memory continue to inspire future generations of climbers.
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