October 14th 2024.
Marchmont, one of Edinburgh's vibrant neighborhoods, has a new addition to its culinary scene. Curiosity piqued, Richard Bath took it upon himself to check out the buzz surrounding this new restaurant. And let me tell you, it did not disappoint.
Nàdair, a 20-cover restaurant helmed by former Wedgwood chefs Sarah Baldry and Alan Keery, is the epitome of what's "in" right now. From its traditional Gaelic name to its five-course set menu highlighting Scottish and foraged ingredients, Scandi influences, and daring flavors, this place has it all. The minimalist decor adds to its charm, making it the perfect spot to build a local following.
But with all the good things being said, I must admit, I have some reservations about this trend of tasting menus in high-end dining establishments. Nàdair's menu comes with a hefty price tag of £65, and if you decide to indulge in a bottle of wine and the discretionary service charge, you're looking at a bill of around £175 for two people. And if you opt for the paired wines, be prepared to shell out £250. That's definitely a splurge, even for the most discerning diners.
But let's focus on the food, shall we? After all, that's what truly matters. And in that aspect, Nàdair delivers. Our meal started with a simple yet delicious starter of focaccia, smoked butter, tomato, and dashi. But it was the second dish that stole the show - a heavenly combination of cavatelli pasta, chanterelles, black garlic, and buckwheat. The crunchy texture of the buckwheat added a whole new dimension to the already outstanding dish. My dining partner, who is a self-proclaimed foodie, couldn't stop raving about it.
The main courses were just as impressive. The scallop dish, cooked with buttermilk, onion, and sweet cicely, was a little heavy on the onions, but the anise notes of the sweet cicely perfectly complemented the delicate flavors of the scallop. The duck breast, served with leg croquettes, elderberry, neeps, and lavender, was cooked to perfection and left us wanting more. And let me tell you, we savored every bite of the isle of Mull cheddar beignets before they disappeared in a blink of an eye.
To end the meal on a sweet note, we had a chocolate pudding with a twist - the addition of peppermint and sea salt took it to a whole new level. And the reaction from my dining partner was nothing short of enthusiastic.
What made our dining experience even better was the reasonably priced wine list, with a good selection of organic options. We opted for a bottle of Viognier and a glass of their house red to accompany our meal. The service was impeccable, and our waiters were knowledgeable and attentive, adding to the overall experience.
In these challenging times, it will be interesting to see how the market responds to the prices at Nàdair. But one thing's for sure, this restaurant is a welcome addition to the fast-gentrifying and Airbnb-heavy neighborhood of Marchmont. And with its excellent food, charming ambiance, and friendly service, Nàdair is definitely worth a visit. Don't just take my word for it, go and check it out for yourself. And while you're at it, why not subscribe to Scottish Field to read more reviews like this one?
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