October 22nd 2024.
Located in the Arctic Circle, Norilsk may seem like a daunting place to live. However, for those living in the UK, a look at this Russian city, often dubbed the "world's most depressing," may just make them feel grateful for their own circumstances.
Norilsk, an ex-USSR town in north Siberia, has earned its unfortunate title from numerous sources over the years. And it's not hard to see why. With year-round snow and temperatures that can reach a scorching 9°C in summer and a bone-chilling -50°C in January, the city's location within the Arctic Circle is not for the faint of heart. And during the winter, the sun never rises, leaving residents in complete darkness for 45 days every year.
Located 1,800 miles from Moscow and 930 miles from Krasnoyarsk, the capital of the oblast, Norilsk is incredibly remote. The city is only accessible by a freight railway line that leads to the port of Dudinka, where residents can cross the river to the rest of the country. The only other way in and out of Norilsk is by a five-hour flight to Moscow or one of Russia's smaller regional airports.
Norilsk was built in the 1930s on the site of a former Gulag labor camp after geologists discovered valuable deposits of nickel, copper, and cobalt. Tragically, the city was largely constructed by Soviet prisoners, with an estimated 16,806 lives lost between 1935 and 1936 due to the sub-zero temperatures. Even today, the remains of these prisoners can be found in the soil, as seen on TikTok by user @cmardukh, who visited the town.
Today, Norilsk is responsible for producing a fifth of the world's nickel and more than half of its palladium. As a result, almost everyone in the city has some connection to the Norilsk Nickel plant. While this industry keeps the local economy afloat, it also causes severe pollution. The smelting process releases around two million tons of toxic gas every year, with an estimated 1% of global sulfur dioxide emissions coming from this one small city. Additionally, the constant smog and acid rain have killed off half of the surrounding forests, leaving a barren landscape of blackened tree skeletons.
The impact of pollution in Norilsk became even more evident in 2016 and 2020 when suspected waste pipe leaks from the plant turned the nearby Daldykan River red. Former factory worker Evgeny Belikov told ABC that even the snow in winter turns red, which may seem beautiful but is actually a result of the chemical pollution.
If the pollution and extreme weather conditions weren't enough, Norilsk is also home to wild polar bears. These majestic creatures, forced into the city due to warming winters and lack of Arctic hunting grounds, are not exactly friendly neighbors.
Despite its reputation as a depressing and dystopian place, over 170,000 people call Norilsk home. This is mainly due to the employment opportunities offered by the Norilsk Nickel plant, where workers can earn more than £800 a month, a significant increase from the national average of less than £600. The company also offers excellent training and career advancement opportunities, making it an attractive option for many.
While some may find the city's harsh conditions and pollution unbearable, others find a sense of community in Norilsk. Estonian journalist Jaanus Piirsalu, who visited in 2018, claimed that the cold weather is offset by the warm-hearted people. However, living in Norilsk does come at a price. The life expectancy here is 10 years lower than the rest of Russia, with higher rates of cancer and blood illnesses in children due to the pollution. Additionally, the lack of light and warmth during the winter can cause various "polar syndromes," including depression, sleep problems, and difficulties with concentration and memory.
Despite these challenges, Norilsk does have amenities such as shops, a theatre, and museums. The beautiful Lake Dolgoye is also a popular spot for swimming and sunbathing during the warmer months. In recent years, efforts have been made to improve Norilsk, such as repainting buildings in the central city and opening a new gallery, the Arctic Museum of Modern Art.
If you're brave enough to visit this remote and harsh city, you'll need special permission from the Russian government. Only around 200 foreigners are granted permits to visit Norilsk each year, and the restrictions are strict. However, for those who do make the journey, they can experience the stunning scenery and learn about the city's chilling past, including the Norilsk Golgotha memorial, which honors the lives lost in the Norillag labor camp.
In conclusion, Norilsk may not be the most inviting place to live, but for those who call it home, it offers a unique sense of community and employment opportunities. Its harsh conditions and pollution are challenges that residents must face, but efforts are being made to improve the city and its reputation. And for those who are curious enough, a visit to Norilsk may just provide a glimpse into a world that is both fascinating and unsettling.
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