July 18th 2024.
Nestled in a peaceful copse on Edinburgh's charming London Road, just a short stroll away from the popular Toppings & Company Booksellers and The Playhouse, lies a hidden gem - The Gardener's Cottage. This enchanting restaurant seems to have been plucked straight out of a fairy tale countryside, with its grey-stone exterior, black painted windowpanes, and a quaint gravel path surrounded by lush trees, shrubs, and fragrant herbs.
As you step through the threshold, the first thing that catches your eye is a beautiful bookcase filled with an impressive selection of wine. And if you glance to your right, you'll find a cozy, warmly-lit room adorned with more wine bottles, adding to the rustic charm of the place. I had been meaning to visit The Gardener's Cottage for years, ever since I first started visiting Edinburgh over a decade ago. And now, under new management by a couple with extensive experience in the culinary and hospitality industry, I was thrilled to be invited to try their new tasting menu.
We were ushered into a charming intimate room on the left side, where we were seated at communal-style tables next to a lovely American couple. Despite the close proximity to our neighbors, the atmosphere was relaxed and comfortable, allowing us to engage in conversations without feeling cramped. Although my guest jokingly suggested that it may not be the ideal place for a top-secret MI5 meeting. But that's just a testament to the friendly and inviting ambiance of The Gardener's Cottage.
One of the unique aspects of The Gardener's Cottage is their tasting menu, which offers a shared dining experience for all the guests. This creates an opportunity for diners to strike up conversations with their neighbors, discussing their favorite courses, wine pairings, and even exchanging stories about where they come from. During our visit, we had the pleasure of dining with three different sets of tablemates - two American couples and a local tech professional. This diverse mix of diners seemed to be a true reflection of The Gardener's Cottage's appeal - a charming spot for locals seeking a taste of fine Scottish cuisine and a hidden gem for tourists.
The set menu at The Gardener's Cottage truly captures the essence of a Scottish summer. You won't find any exotic ingredients like pineapple or coconut here. Instead, they focus on using fresh and locally sourced ingredients, including herbs grown in their own garden. As we savored each dish, the subtle scents, soft lighting, and soothing music created a lovely summery vibe. And the sea seemed to be a recurring theme, with dishes featuring sea salt, seaweed, and various seafood delicacies.
The meal began with Dunbar crab tart with fennel. These delightful little parcels had a thin and crispy casing that provided a satisfying crunch, allowing the rich crab flavor to shine without any overwhelming ingredients. The fennel added a subtle hint of seasoning, enhancing the dish without overpowering it.
Next, we were served freshly baked sourdough accompanied by homemade seaweed butter. I must say, I could have happily devoured several more slices of this heavenly bread, and we actually did. The butter, infused with salty seaweed, added a rich and luscious flavor to the bread, reminiscent of a sunny afternoon by the sea. Along with the bread, we were also served ricotta topped with olive oil, Isle of Wight tomatoes, pickled shallots, and lovage. The creamy ricotta had a smooth and velvety texture, complemented by the sweet and tangy tomatoes and the hint of acidity from the pickled shallots.
As a lover of all things seafood, I was looking forward to the hand-dived scallops with corn, green beans, and almonds. The presentation of this dish was simply stunning, with the scallops - including the roe - beautifully presented in their half shells, sitting on a bright yellow puree. I had never tried corn puree before, but it was a delightful surprise, adding a touch of sweetness that perfectly complemented the delicate scallops and the rich and meaty roe. The grilled corn and green beans were a delicious bonus, adding a burst of texture and flavor to the dish.
No Scottish menu would be complete without some form of venison, and The Gardener's Cottage did not disappoint. The medium-rare venison was cooked to perfection, with just the right amount of saltiness. But the real star of the dish was the plum sauce - sweet, slightly tart, and perfectly balanced, adding a burst of complementary flavors to every bite. Even my guest, who is not a fan of venison, was blown away by this dish.
Although we had the option to add on a cheese course for an extra fee, we were already starting to feel quite full. However, our American tablemates could not resist the temptation of IJ Mellis cheese, and they thoroughly enjoyed it. Instead, we decided to save some room for dessert, and boy, were we glad we did. The dessert was a financier shaped like a madeleine, served with rhubarb and raspberry sorbet and topped with fresh mint from the garden. This refreshing and palate-cleansing treat had the perfect balance of sweetness and tartness, leaving us wanting more. Our tablemates even commented on how quickly I devoured it, while my guest chattered away.
We ended the night with a cup of tea and a plate of miso caramel fudge. The caramel was truly phenomenal, with the rich miso balancing out the sweetness and adding a touch of savory flavor. It was the perfect way to end a truly delightful meal. And after a decade of waiting, I can confidently say that I will definitely be back for more. The impeccable service, cozy yet intimate atmosphere, and most importantly, the mouth-watering dishes have earned The Gardener's Cottage a spot on my list of must-visit restaurants in Edinburgh.
If you're in the area, I highly recommend paying a visit to The Gardener's Cottage at Royal Terrace Gardens on 1 London Road. You can reach them at 0131 558 1221. And for more reviews and recommendations, make sure to subscribe to Scottish Field. Happy dining!
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