October 28th 2024.
Stockbridge, a once run-down working-class suburb of Edinburgh, has undergone a remarkable transformation in recent years. It is now considered one of the most sought-after places to live in the UK, not just in the capital city. This change in fortune is evident in the rise of artisan bakeries, trendy cafes, and a thriving collection of charity shops. However, while many things have changed, some of the area's iconic pubs have remained. Sadly, the same cannot be said for its restaurants, as many of the long-standing eateries have closed down one by one.
One of the most recent additions to Stockbridge's dining scene is Sotto, a stylish Italian enoteca-trattoria. This two-story wine bar and restaurant was created by Edinburgh-born sommelier James Clark, who previously worked as the general manager of Divino Enoteca and The Palmerston. With a passion for Italian cuisine and an impressive collection of over 200 wines from all over Italy, Clark has brought something truly authentic to the area.
The restaurant's name, décor, wine list, and menu all reflect its Italian roots. Even the staff consists mostly of Italians, who are eager to share their love and knowledge of their country's cuisine. This makes navigating the menu and wine list a breeze for patrons. Speaking of the menu, it offers a wide range of dishes from all over Italy. From taggiasca olives from Liguria to 'nduja butter focaccia and orecchiette salsicca from Apulia, there is something for every palate.
My guest and I started our meal with some antipasti, including my personal favorite, gnocco fritto, a delicious fried dough street food. This was followed by a mouth-watering dish of cured wild bass with sweet red tropea onions and pine nuts. For our primi, we tried both the tagliatelle al funghi porcini and the orecchiette salsicca. While the former was a bit oily and lacking in flavor, the latter was a rich and meaty delight.
However, the highlight of our meal was the guancia di mazo, a Veronese specialty of beef cheeks braised in Amarone wine and served with creamy mashed potatoes. The meat was melt-in-your-mouth tender, and the sauce was rich and flavorful. It was truly a dish to remember. We also had the fish of the day, a perfectly cooked tuna steak, but it paled in comparison to the beef cheeks.
For dessert, we tried the lemon granita and the pistachio ice cream served with brioche. While the granita was a refreshing palate cleanser, the brioche was a bit too heavy for my liking. However, we were thoroughly impressed with the wine list, which offered a wide selection by the glass and highlighted organic and biodynamic options.
Overall, our experience at Sotto was enjoyable, and we look forward to returning to try more of the menu. It is a significant upgrade from its predecessor, the Ping-On, which was known for its average food and upset tummies. Sotto has truly brought a taste of Italy to Stockbridge, and I highly recommend giving it a try. Cheers!
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