February 13th 2025.
In 2023, the Grand Hotel Brioni was proudly voted as the best hotel in all of Croatia. The Balkans, often described as "cheap as chips" or "a budget alternative to the south of France", are a region that holds a special place in my heart as I grew up in Bulgaria. It is a region full of rich culture, breathtaking landscapes, and awe-inspiring architectural wonders that deserve more recognition than being seen as a lesser alternative to popular European destinations.
One shining example of the Balkan's exceptionalism is the Grand Hotel Brioni, a luxurious five-star property that is part of the Radisson chain located in Pula, on the tip of Croatia's Istrian Peninsula. This hotel not only boasts of its recent extensive £30 million renovation, but it also holds a significant place in the history of the country.
During my stay at the hotel, I learned that it played a pivotal role in Yugoslavia's past during the era of Josip Broz Tito, the country's president from 1945 until his death in 1980. Tito, the de facto dictator who ruled over six republics with an iron fist, was often seen at the hotel sipping whiskey with his entourage. The hotel also welcomed Hollywood and music royalty such as Sophia Loren, Boney M, and even Abba in the 1970s. It was also a popular spot for politicians, including Colonel Gaddafi of Libya. In fact, the hotel's Sophia Restaurant is named after the iconic Ms. Loren.
Getting to Pula has become easier than ever before. Low-cost airline Jet2 has recently announced a new route from London Stansted, with flights starting in May. Additionally, EasyJet offers direct routes from London Gatwick from April to October, with affordable one-way fares starting at £47.
Upon arriving at the Grand Hotel Brioni, I was greeted by a sprawling reception area that was filled with natural light, thanks to its floor-to-ceiling windows. The hotel's design exudes a Mediterranean vibe with its use of blues and whites, combined with natural materials like stone and marble. The rooftop terrace offers an infinity pool that provides stunning views of the Adriatic Sea. As I explored the hotel's spa, which spans over two floors and offers an indoor pool, whirlpool, saunas, and treatment rooms, I couldn't resist booking an Ayurvedic massage to fully immerse myself in the soothing atmosphere.
The hotel's 227 rooms, just like the communal spaces, are designed with soft, neutral tones that create a sense of calmness. The uncluttered spaces feature king-sized beds and luxurious touches like bathrobes. One of the perks of staying at the Grand Hotel Brioni is the option to choose from seven different types of pillows, ensuring a comfortable night's sleep. Prices for standard rooms start at around £250 per night, depending on the season.
One of the highlights of my stay was the hotel's culinary offerings. The hotel's decor, with its marble floors, may be impressive, but it is the meat dishes that truly steal the show. Although I am a vegetarian, I couldn't help but appreciate the sight of tomahawk steak and Kobe beef being served from the Josper grill. The hors d'oeuvres, which included bread, butter, and two types of salts infused with Jack Daniels and lime, were a delightful surprise. It is safe to say that this might be my new death row meal. The drinks list also features some local gems, such as a sparkling wine from Istria, chosen by the sommelier, and Medea Montiron.
As I enjoyed my meal and watched the sunset, I couldn't help but notice a pod of dolphins swimming in the distance, not far from the Adriatic coast. The entire restaurant was quickly on their feet to capture this rare sighting, and it was a magical moment.
Aside from the hotel's luxurious amenities, there are plenty of things to do in Pula. The city is steeped in ancient traditions, and one of the must-do activities is a guided tour of the Roman amphitheatre, which is the only one with its remaining four side towers entirely preserved. Built between 27 BC and AD 68, it is one of the six largest surviving Roman arenas in the world and was primarily used for gladiator games. However, it is now a popular venue for concerts, with famous artists such as Dua Lipa, Avril Lavigne, and Lenny Kravitz performing there in 2024.
After exploring the city's history, it was time to indulge in some local cuisine. A visit to aROMA gelateria is a must, where I tried the Istriano, a specialty gelato made with vanilla, lemon, and extra virgin olive oil from Istria. For those looking to escape the city's hustle and bustle, a short boat ride from Pula's promenade takes you to the Brijuni Islands, which are one mile from mainland Croatia. These islands were a favorite of Tito, who used them as his personal state residence during the summer. He even hosted almost 100 international heads of state and famous celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, and Gina Lollobrigida.
Aside from its historical significance, the Brijuni Islands also showcase Croatia's natural beauty. The main island, Veliki Brijun, is home to a safari park with exotic animals like zebras and an elephant gifted to Tito by Indira Gandhi. The island is also surrounded by beautiful oak trees.
During my visit to the museum on the island, I learned more about how communism shaped the Eastern Bloc after World War II, with a special exhibit dedicated to Tito's life. The building itself holds significant historical value as it is where Tito met with world leaders such as Egyptian president Gamal Abdel Nasser and India's prime minister Jawaharlal Nehru to discuss their opposition to the Cold War in 1956.
After indulging in some traditional Croatian cuisine at Farabuto, a family-run restaurant located just a few minutes from the hotel, I joined the evening crowds at Tito's Park, near the Roman arena, where the annual wine festival was taking place. It was a great opportunity to try different wines that are not commonly available in London and to mingle with the locals.
As my trip to Pula came to an end, I couldn't help but feel a sense of sadness as I said goodbye to the welcoming staff at the Grand Hotel Brioni and the beautiful city. I know that I will be back soon to explore more of what Pula and the Balkans have to offer. This trip was a reminder of the hidden gems that can be found in lesser-known destinations and the importance of preserving and celebrating their culture and history.
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