July 6th 2024.
The lush grounds of Wasing Place in Berkshire were once home to a humble barn, but it has since been transformed into a stunning function room. As someone who loves the combination of fire and spirituality, I couldn't resist visiting this place. It holds a special place in my heart, as I spent my childhood playing among the ancient trees that line the 2,000-year-old Iron Age ringfort. And as a moody teenager, I often sought solace among the sea of daffodils that bloom in the center of the fort during springtime. But what truly captivated me were the people who would gather here to restore their energy, placing their hands on the stones that encircled the clearing.
To me, this is what spiritualism is all about. It's not necessary to believe in the mystical to appreciate a moment of meditation in a peaceful place. That's why I've hitchhiked to and from Uisneach, the "sacred center of Ireland," to celebrate the arrival of summer. And just last year, I danced around a bonfire near an enchanted waterfall, welcoming the Slavic solstice with open arms.
When I heard about Solstice on the Mount, a sober summer solstice festival held on a 4,000-acre country estate, I was skeptical. It was taking place at Wasing, the estate owned by former Prime Minister David Cameron's cousin, who had attended the prestigious Eton College. The grounds were sprawling, with an old barn, a dovecot, and a 15th century chapel that had all been renovated to accommodate wedding guests. It wasn't exactly the type of environment I was used to. But despite my reservations, I was intrigued, especially since it would be my first time seeing indie musician Nick Mulvey perform live in over a decade.
As I arrived at Wasing, hours before the festival was set to begin at 5pm, I checked into a quaint blacksmith's cottage where I would be spending the night. It had a cozy bed and a luxurious wet room for me to freshen up in. With time to spare, I decided to explore the grounds, which were filled with diverse and broadleaved trees for miles. I strolled beneath the canopy, following a dirt path that led to a lake. The water was a warm brown color, thanks to the silt lining its shallow bed. Dragonflies hovered above the surface, and I even spotted some stick-like fish swimming below. On the jetty, there was a metal basin filled with ice, where brave souls could take a dip and reap the benefits of an invigorating cold plunge.
I watched as one woman submerged herself in the icy water, and I couldn't help but hold my breath in amazement as she calmly controlled hers. The water was a refreshing reprieve from the hot 23°C weather. But as tempting as it was to join in, I decided to pass, opting instead to relax in the sun and take in the shimmering lake surface through a two-sided mirror in the nearby sauna. Eventually, it was time to head to the "sacred glen" where the festival would be taking place.
Some festivalgoers had stayed up all night, celebrating the summer solstice until the sun rose in the morning. The stage was situated at the base of the eponymous Mount, up a trail lined with smoldering sage and tree stumps adorned with bluebells. It was a sight to behold. The guitars of Rodrigo y Gabriela echoed through the glen, and as the sun began to set, their music seemed to tremble and thunder with even more intensity. Nick Mulvey took the stage and had the crowd swaying and bouncing to his music. But I couldn't stay in one spot for too long, as the woods of Wasing beckoned me to explore.
As I wandered through the trees, I came across food trucks serving up delicious dishes like samosas, lentil curry, hot dogs, and Vietnamese noodles. I devoured a falafel bowl in record time, not wanting to miss any of the festival's offerings. I even walked along a fallen trunk, pretending it was a tightrope, and marveled at the 6-foot-tall purple foxgloves in a nearby clearing. In another clearing, I found an almost perfect circle where the audience had gathered around a fire after the acts on stage had finished performing.
Everything was thoughtfully planned out, from the fire guardians keeping a safe distance between the flames and the audience, to the enchanting music of the harp and the soothing vocals of Ajeet and her band. As the night wore on and midnight approached, the focus shifted to a nearby field where AWARE's multi-instrumental trance music guided some festivalgoers all the way until dawn. Sadly, I didn't quite make it that far. I returned to my cottage for a much-needed nap, despite setting a 3am alarm to try and catch the sunrise. The bed was too comfortable, and the day's adventures had left me exhausted.
But even though it was the longest day of the year, I never wanted it to end. And one of the reasons for that was the fact that the festival was alcohol-free. As someone who enjoys a good pint, I was a bit wary at first. But I soon realized that I didn't need alcohol to have a good time. I've always been a fan of dancing like a fool, with or without a drink in hand, and Wasing provided the perfect setting for that. I didn't have to worry about any rowdy behavior or keeping an eye out for my safety. I could fully embrace the music, the dancing, and the beauty of nature without needing any substances.
It was a beautiful and memorable experience, and I couldn't help but think about the unique approach that landlord Joshua Dugdale had taken with Solstice on the Mount. In a world where country estates often struggle to turn a profit, Dugdale had found a way to not only make Wasing financially successful, but also to infuse it with a sense of spirituality that he had gathered from his travels around the world. As I chatted with the estate's chief executive over breakfast the next morning, he explained that their main goal was to create a space in nature where people could come and be present, truly experiencing all that nature has to offer.
And that's exactly what I did at Solstice on the Mount. Time seemed to stand still, and I was fully immersed in the moment, without a care in the world. It may have been a more tame and manicured festival than I'm used to, but it was an experience I will never forget.
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