October 27th 2024.
In the state of South Dakota, there is a saying that "dirt is cowgirl glitter." It's a place where cowgirls and cowboys ride horses and use whips to corral over a thousand bison across the vast plains. The sound of hooves and the dust kicked up from the ground create a thunderous symphony as the cattle make their way over hills and into corrals. And believe it or not, I'm not watching some Hollywood movie set in the Wild West – I'm actually right in the middle of the action in South Dakota's American Midwest. I'm perched on the back of a pick-up truck, covered head-to-toe in dirt, taking in the 59th Annual Custer State Park Buffalo Roundup.
As I look around, I can't help but be reminded of the words of US professional rodeo cowgirl Fallon Taylor: "Dirt is cowgirl glitter." And honestly, I've fully embraced it because I'm here to experience what it's really like to be a cowgirl. Riding around in this monstrous vehicle, chasing after a herd of 1,300 bison, I can hardly believe my eyes. The Buffalo Roundup has been a tradition for over a century in this isolated region of the Black Hills mountain range, and it's become one of the greatest events of the Wild West. It's free for anyone to attend, and every year on the last Friday of September, thousands of tourists flock to witness this incredible spectacle.
This year, there are over 24,000 spectators who have traveled from far and wide to watch as the herd stampedes past for sorting, branding, testing, and treatment. The Buffalo Roundup is an important part of Custer State Park's management plan, as it helps maintain a healthy balance between the bison population and the available grazing land. The park itself was established in 1919 and is the largest in South Dakota, attracting over 1.5 million visitors each year. It's home to a wide range of wildlife, including elk, bighorn sheep, pronghorn antelope, and prairie dogs, which can all be seen on the 18-mile Wildlife Loop Road.
Custer State Park is one of the few remaining places in the American West that still retains its wildness. But its 71,000 acres are just the tip of the iceberg – there's so much more to explore in the rest of the Black Hills. For the Lakota Sioux, this mountain range holds great significance as they believe it to be the center of their universe and the birthplace of their culture. These days, outdoor enthusiasts can freely roam the 1.2 million acres, taking in the breathtaking beauty of pine-covered peaks, glistening streams, crystal clear lakes, and countless hiking and biking trails.
During my trip, I unfortunately didn't have enough time to hike to the top of Black Elk Peak, the tallest peak in the range at 7,242 feet and the highest point between the Rocky Mountains and the Pyrenees. However, I did manage to climb Cathedral Spires on the Needles Highway, a 1.6-mile trail that leads to the Black Elk trail. It was a moderately strenuous hike, but I channeled my inner cowgirl and made it to the top. And let me tell you, the view was well worth the effort. Surrounded by granite towers that were formed over two billion years ago, I couldn't help but feel in awe of this ancient landscape. But for those who aren't keen on hiking, there are all-terrain vehicles available to explore the Needles Highway.
These off-road vehicles are specially designed to handle the challenging terrain, with twists and turns at every corner. There are several rental companies in the area that provide vehicles equipped with maps, making it a thrilling off-road adventure that anyone can tackle with confidence. As for me, I couldn't resist the opportunity to take an exhilarating joyride, zooming past incredible rock formations, maneuvering through narrow gaps, and scaling high mountains for breathtaking views of the Black Hills.
After my off-road adventure, I hit the road again in a "normal" vehicle, still in South Dakota, and was completely taken aback by the Badlands National Park. Paying homage to the Lakota people who have called it "Mako Sica" for centuries, which translates to "bad lands," this 244,000-acre area is filled with jagged stone buttes, spires, and pinnacles, contrasting against the sprawling grasslands. It's a truly remarkable sight and a testament to the natural beauty of this wild and rugged region.
South Dakota is a place where cowgirls and cowboys rule the land, their whips cracking and their horses galloping as they herd bison across the vast open plains. The sounds of hooves and dust fill the air as the cattle rumble over the hills and into corrals. It's like stepping into a scene from a Wild West movie, but I'm not watching from a screen. I'm right in the middle of it all, riding in the back of a pick-up truck at the 59th Annual Custer State Park Buffalo Roundup. And let me tell you, I am covered head-to-toe in dirt, just like professional rodeo cowgirl Fallon Taylor said, "Dirt is cowgirl glitter." I embrace the dirt, knowing that I am getting a true taste of the cowgirl life.
As I bounce around in the back of the truck, chasing after the herd of 1,300 bison, I can hardly believe the incredible sight unfolding before me. This tradition, dating back to 1965, is a century old in the isolated Black Hills mountain range. And despite the dust and dirt, it's free for anyone to come and watch on the last Friday in September. It's no wonder that over 24,000 spectators have traveled from far and wide to witness this incredible event.
But the Buffalo Roundup is not just a spectacle for tourists. It is an important part of Custer State Park's management plan to maintain a balance between the bison population and the available grazing land. Established in 1919, this park is the first and largest in South Dakota, drawing in over 1.5 million visitors each year. And it's not just bison that roam these lands. Elk, bighorn sheep, pronghorn antelope, and prairie dogs can also be spotted along the 18-mile Wildlife Loop Road.
Custer State Park is one of the few places left in the American West that remains truly wild, but it's just the beginning. The Black Hills stretch 110 miles long and 70 miles wide, spilling into neighboring Wyoming. For the Native American tribes who have a deep connection to this land, it is considered sacred. The Lakota Sioux, in particular, see the Black Hills, or Paha Sapa in their language, as the center of their universe and the birthplace of their culture.
Thankfully, outdoor enthusiasts can explore this 1.2 million-acre range freely, taking in the breathtaking beauty of pine-covered peaks, sparkling lakes, and countless hiking and biking trails. While I didn't have time to conquer the tallest peak, Black Elk Peak, standing at 7,242 feet, I did manage to climb Cathedral Spires on the Needles Highway. This trail is only 1.6 miles long but leads to the Black Elk Trail. It may be moderately strenuous, but the views are worth every step.
For those who prefer a bit more adventure, the Needles Highway can also be conquered on an all-terrain vehicle. These off-road machines are designed to handle the twists and turns of the rugged terrain, and with the help of maps on tablets, even beginners can tackle it with confidence. I couldn't resist the chance to get behind the wheel and roar past towering rock formations and through narrow gaps, taking in the stunning views of the Black Hills.
After an adrenaline-filled ride, I hit the road again, still in South Dakota, and find myself completely unprepared for what lies ahead. The Badlands National Park is like nothing I've ever seen before. Paying homage to the Lakota people who named it Mako Sica, which roughly translates to "bad lands," this area is filled with 244,000 acres of jagged buttes and spires, contrasting against the vast grasslands.
From the wild cowgirl lifestyle to the sacred Black Hills and the otherworldly Badlands, South Dakota is a place of adventure, beauty, and history. And as I continue my journey, I can't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience it all.
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