July 31st 2024.
A dispute has arisen between Turkey and Germany over the recognition of the beloved döner kebab. This mouth-watering dish consists of layers of marinated meat cooked on a vertical spit, then served on a plate with rice and vegetables or in a pita. It has become a staple in Germany, even surpassing the popularity of sausages, thanks to Turkish migrants who introduced it in the 1970s and 1980s.
The origins of this dish can be traced back to 19th century Turkey, but it was the Turkish migrants who brought it to Germany and made it a household name. Earlier this year, Turkey applied to the European Union to have the döner kebab protected, giving it the same status as other beloved European foods like buffalo mozzarella, Neapolitan pizza, and Spanish jamon serrano. However, Germany is not on board with this idea.
The conflict arises from Turkey's strict criteria for defining the döner kebab, based on its origins during the Ottoman Empire and a recipe dating back to 1546. But this has caused an uproar in Germany, with the capital city of Berlin claiming the döner kebab as a local invention. According to legend, Kadir Nurman was the first to serve the meat in flatbread in 1972, creating the version that is now loved by many in Germany.
However, Agriculture Minister Cem Ozdemir, whose parents migrated from Turkey, believes that the döner kebab belongs to Germany. He believes that everyone should be able to decide for themselves how to prepare and enjoy the dish, without any guidelines from Ankara. Birol Yagci, a chef at a Turkish restaurant in Berlin, also voices his concerns about Turkey's strict criteria, as the traditional recipe in Germany is made with veal, not just beef, lamb, or chicken.
Germany has formally objected to Turkey's application to the EU, just before the deadline. If the objection is accepted, the two parties will have six months to reach a compromise. It seems that this conflict over the döner kebab is not just about food, but also about cultural identity and ownership. Both Turkey and Germany have a strong connection to this beloved dish, and it remains to be seen how this dispute will be resolved.
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