June 27th 2024.
Did you know that in Finland, there are approximately three million saunas? It's quite remarkable considering there are only around 5.5 million people living here. That's a lot of saunas per person! And when it comes to steam, there's no place in the world that has more than the city of Tampere. Situated right in between two beautiful lakes and just over 100 miles north of Helsinki, this compact city is known as the sauna capital of the world with about 60 public saunas to choose from.
Now, I'll admit, I enjoy a good sauna just as much as the next person. But I couldn't help but wonder if sauna culture is truly as big of a deal in Finland as they say it is, or if it's just something they tell tourists. It's like the myth that all Scots regularly eat haggis and listen to bagpipes. So, when I heard about Tampere's Soul of Sauna celebrations, a week-long festival dedicated to sauna culture, I knew it was the perfect opportunity to find out for myself.
I arrived in Tampere on a lovely summer evening and made my way straight to Rauhaniemi Folk Spa and Sauna Temple. This public sauna has been a favorite among locals since 1957. Located on the stunning shore of Lake Näsijärvi, it's the ideal place to experience a traditional sauna session followed by a refreshing dip in the lake to cool off.
My visit happened to coincide with the approaching midsummer, a time when the sun shines for most of the day and night in this far north region. This also means that the lake is warm enough for a pleasant swim. However, Rauhaniemi is open year-round, with only a hole in the ice during winter for those brave enough to take a dip between sauna sessions. I couldn't resist trying out the Sauna Temple, a wood-fired sauna tucked inside a yurt. I even gave the birch twig whipping a go, which made the sauna smell absolutely amazing. Although, I'm not sure I was vigorous enough to reap the full circulatory benefits. But hey, when in Tampere, right?
As a typical bashful Brit, I was a bit apprehensive about the dress code for the Soul of Sauna week. However, I was relieved to discover that swimwear is the norm in mixed public saunas. I mean, whipping each other with birch twigs is one thing, but public nudity is a whole other level.
Aside from its abundance of saunas, Tampere is also known for its industrial prowess. In fact, a Scottish man named James Finlayson recognized its potential as an industrial city and founded the Finlayson Company there in 1820. Born in Penicuik, Midlothian, he traveled to Finland with the mission to sell bibles when the country was under Russian rule. His factory produced linen and textiles, using water power from the Tammerkoski river rapids, and sparked an industrial revolution that led to the rise of red brick factories around Tampere. While most of the buildings in the city center have since been converted into offices, shops, and public spaces, one factory still produces cardboard.
A stroll around the city center offers a chance to browse through the many independent shops, galleries, and boutiques. Many of these are owned and operated by designers and artists, so you're bound to find something unique to take home. There are also numerous stalls selling delicious and juicy fresh fruit, including the sweetest strawberries I've ever tasted. It's hard to believe that soft fruit can thrive this far north, but the long days of sunlight make it possible. A visit to the Market Hall showcases even more local produce through a variety of market stalls.
One thing that has struck me about Finnish sauna culture is how it is intertwined with many other aspects of life. There are saunas in restaurants, bars, boats, shopping centers, and even art galleries. With this in mind, I hopped on the Art & Sauna bus to Serlachius, a nearby town. I should mention that getting around Tampere by bus was a breeze, despite my lack of language skills. Trams, trains, and buses are easily navigable, even if English is the only language you know.
Serlachius also has its roots in Finland's industry, and this art collection, partly housed in a former home of a Finnish paper baron family and partly in an adjacent architect-designed space, is definitely worth a visit. Set by a lake, as much of Finland is, the old house is filled with historical pieces collected by the family. The beautiful gallery space, complete with a fine-dining restaurant, features a rotating program of contemporary exhibitions. I spent a lovely day exploring the works, occasionally pausing for a gourmet lunch or a cup of tea and cake at the charming Summer Cafe Autereentupa.
But, as is typical of Finland, nature is never too far away. The art led me outside to discover hidden pieces on a small island accessible by bridge and others standing tall on the lakeside. It was here that I stumbled upon the art sauna, a modern wooden building with indoor and outdoor spaces for events, a sauna, and a tempting pier just begging to be leapt off into the crystal-clear lake.
On my way back to Tampere, I couldn't help but notice how much of the countryside is covered in forests and water. Nature is highly valued by the Finnish people, and it's no wonder that Finland has been ranked as the happiest country in the world for seven consecutive years. It's hard to underestimate the impact that spending time in nature can have on our mental health, and here in Finland, it's almost impossible to avoid.
Feeling incredibly content and happy, I woke up early the next morning to a beautiful sunrise and a yoga class on the stunning rooftop terrace of Periscope in the city center. With a 360-degree view of the city, it's hard to imagine a better way to start the day. That is, until I saw their luxurious rooftop sauna and jacuzzi area.
Fingers crossed for good weather, as I was off to Viikinsaari Island, just a short 20-minute boat ride from the harbor. The island is a peaceful and picturesque place to spend more time in nature, with lovely swimming beaches, a gentle nature trail, and a restaurant and café to enjoy.
As my time in Tampere came to an end, I made sure to visit a few more saunas, including a smoke sauna - a traditional style without a chimney. For those unfamiliar, the smoke is allowed to disperse before anyone enters, so no gas masks are necessary. It was actually a lovely experience, with the comforting scent of wood smoke in the warm air.
In chatting with the locals, I've come to understand their deep respect and love for nature. I was also surprised to learn that almost every home in Finland has its own sauna. While many people use their home saunas daily, they still make time to visit public saunas. It seems to me that while the health benefits of sauna and cold water dips are well-known, the importance of sauna culture is also deeply rooted in social connection. It's a revelation that will stay with me for a long time, and one that I wish we could replicate back home.
Did you know that Finland has a whopping three million saunas? It's quite a staggering number considering the country's population of only 5.5 million people. That's a lot of saunas per person! And when it comes to steam, no place in the world can beat Tampere. This charming city is nestled in between two beautiful lakes, about 100 miles north of Helsinki. It's known as the sauna capital of the world, with around 60 public saunas to choose from.
As someone who enjoys a good sauna session, I couldn't help but wonder if sauna culture is really as big in Finland as they say it is, or if it's just something they tell tourists. Kind of like how people assume all Scots love haggis and bagpipes. So when I heard about Tampere's Soul of Sauna celebrations, a week-long event dedicated to sauna culture, I knew I had to experience it for myself.
I arrived in Tampere on a beautiful summer evening, and my first stop was Rauhaniemi Folk Spa and Sauna Temple. This public sauna has been a local favorite since 1957, and it's located on the serene shores of Lake Näsijärvi. It's the perfect spot to enjoy a traditional sauna experience and then cool off with a dip in the lake. I even got to try whipping my skin with birch twigs, a practice believed to have circulatory benefits. I can't say I did it with much vigor, but when in Tampere...
As a shy Brit, I was a bit worried about the dress code for the Soul of Sauna week. But I was relieved to find out that in mixed public saunas, swimwear is the norm. I mean, whipping each other with twigs is one thing, but public nudity is a whole other story.
Aside from its abundance of saunas, Tampere is also known for its industrial prowess. In fact, it was a Scottish man who saw its potential and founded the Finlayson Company there in 1820. James Finlayson originally traveled to Finland to sell bibles, but ended up starting an industrial revolution with his linen and textile factory. While most of the old factories have now been converted into offices and shops, one still produces cardboard.
A stroll around the city center is a treat, with its many independent shops, galleries, and boutiques. Many of these are owned and run by talented designers and makers, so you're sure to find unique treasures to take home. And don't even get me started on the fresh fruit stalls, especially the juicy strawberries that are just irresistible. It's amazing how well soft fruit can grow this far north, but I guess the long days of sunlight make all the difference. A visit to the Market Hall is a must, where you can find a variety of local produce.
What struck me most about Finnish sauna culture is how it's intertwined with daily life. You can find saunas in restaurants, bars, boats, shopping centers, and even art galleries. So it's no surprise that I hopped on the Art & Sauna bus to Serlachius in the nearby town of Mänttä. Getting around Tampere is easy, even for someone like me with no knowledge of the language. Trams, trains, and buses are all user-friendly for English speakers.
Serlachius is home to a collection of art, housed in a former paper baron's home and a stunning architect-designed space. Surrounded by a lake, the old house is filled with historical pieces collected by the family. The modern gallery showcases a rotating selection of contemporary exhibitions. I spent hours exploring the artwork, taking breaks to enjoy a delicious gourmet lunch and later, tea and cake at the charming Summer Cafe Autereentupa.
But true to Finnish style, nature is never far away. I was drawn outside to admire the pieces scattered on a tiny island connected by a bridge, and those standing on the lakeside. It was here that I discovered the art sauna, a state-of-the-art building with both indoor and outdoor spaces for events, a sauna, and a pier perfect for jumping into the crystal clear lake.
On my way back to Tampere, I couldn't help but notice how much of the countryside is covered in forests and water. Nature is incredibly important to the Finns, and it's no wonder why Finland has been named the happiest country in the world for the past seven years. The impact of spending time in nature on one's mental health cannot be underestimated, and it's practically impossible to avoid it here.
The next morning, I woke up to glorious sunshine and a yoga class on the stunning rooftop terrace at Periscope in the city center. With 360-degree views of the city, it's hard to imagine a better way to start the day. That is until I was shown their luxurious rooftop sauna and jacuzzi area.
I was keeping my fingers crossed for good weather because I was off to Viikinsaari Island, just a short 20-minute boat ride from the harbor. The island is a peaceful retreat, with beautiful swimming beaches, a gentle nature trail, and a restaurant and café to enjoy.
As my time in Tampere came to an end, I made sure to visit a couple more saunas, including a smoke sauna, which is a traditional style sauna without a chimney. For those who are unfamiliar, the smoke is allowed to disperse before anyone enters, so no gas masks are needed. It was actually quite a lovely experience, with the comforting scent of wood smoke in the warm air.
During my trip, I had the chance to chat with some Finns, and I was struck by their deep respect and love for nature. I was also surprised to learn that almost every home has its own sauna, yet people still frequent public saunas. It seems that while the health benefits of sauna and cold water dipping are widely recognized, the importance of sauna culture is also deeply rooted in social connection. It was a revelation that will stay with me for a very long time, and one that I wish we could replicate back home.
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