July 8th 2024.
Recently, I had the pleasure of visiting Skua, a charming eatery in Stockbridge that was celebrating its first birthday. As I sat in the bustling food market, observing the chaos caused by seagulls swooping down on unsuspecting visitors, I couldn't help but be entertained by the commotion. However, I was reminded that these birds, also known as bonxies or skuas, can be quite territorial and have been known to steal food from larger birds.
As my mind wandered, I couldn't help but think of Skua, tucked away in what used to be the Blue Parrot Cantina. It was the brainchild of culinary duo Sam Yorke and Tomás Gormley, who launched the restaurant last year alongside their first Michelin-starred establishment in Leith, Heron. Although Yorke and Gormley have since parted ways, Skua is now under the leadership of head chef James Aikman, formerly of the renowned Michelin-starred restaurant Timberyard.
With the restaurant's first birthday approaching, I was excited to try their latest menu. As we descended the stairs into Skua's moody interior, I was transported to a subterranean world. The black walls enveloped us, illuminated only by a few candles and a neon ceiling light, creating the perfect ambiance for a romantic date night. I couldn't help but wonder how many layers of paint it took to cover the tropical blue walls from the Blue Parrot era, and how many it would take to transform the current black walls into a Scandinavian-inspired design.
We were greeted with an impressive drinks menu curated by head bartender Jacob Thunder. I opted for a spicy margarita while my companion chose the Bloodwork Orange cocktail. Both were delicious and expertly crafted, but I had to be careful not to have too many as they packed quite a punch.
Our server recommended one large plate and four small plates to share, and we eagerly followed his advice. We started with some steaming hot bread served with Katy Rodger's butter, a true test of a restaurant's quality in my opinion. The bread did not disappoint, and it was clear why Skua has been featured in both the Good Food Guide and the Michelin Guide.
Next, we tried the Coppa, a thinly sliced Italian cured meat from I. J. Mellis, which was incredibly silky and moreish. This was followed by a plate of fresh Isle of Wight tomatoes served with gooseberries and basil. Despite the seemingly steep price, we both agreed that it was worth every penny. The tomatoes were perfectly ripe and balanced well with the tartness of the gooseberries, refreshing our palates for the rest of the meal.
My companion's ears perked up at the mention of Skua's fried chicken in hot sauce, served with a fermented peach and plum sauce. It was a messy, sticky, and delicious dish that we devoured in no time. However, the real star of the meal was the monkfish, seared to perfection and served with preserved lemon, turnip, and sea aster. The flavors were truly magical, with the saltiness of the dish beautifully complemented by the butter-basted turnip.
To end our meal, we shared the only dessert on offer, a crowdie, cream, and strawberry concoction that satisfied our sweet cravings. In total, our meal came to around £80 for two, making it a reasonably priced option in Edinburgh. And the cherry on top? There wasn't a divebombing seagull or skua in sight.
Skua now offers service six days a week, from Monday to Saturday, with drinks served until late in the evening. Reservations are recommended, but walk-ins are also welcome. For more information, check out their website. Bon appétit!
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