May 23rd 2024.
Cromlix House holds a special place in my heart as a building I was once familiar with, but haven't had the chance to visit in quite some time. So, when I finally found my way back there recently, it was like reuniting with an old friend.
It's been a decade since the Murrays first opened the doors of Cromlix House, and the first thing that struck me was how beautifully and thoughtfully it has been updated. The new décor, funded by the couple's impressive tennis winnings, is a perfect blend of modern and traditional elements. Andy's wife Kim has taken the reins on the renovations, choosing darker colors for the woodwork and incorporating trendy wallpaper, resulting in a sophisticated yet welcoming atmosphere throughout the entire property.
On the sunny evening of our arrival, we were greeted with a picturesque scene outside - rows of tables on the pristine lawn, bottles of champagne and wine glistening in ice buckets, a playful puppy frolicking on the grass, and the distinctive call of a peacock in the distance. It was a dreamy, countryside setting that set the tone for our evening. We decided to start with a couple of cocktails in the bar - a margarita and an old-fashioned - both of which were a bit weak in terms of flavor, but the charming ambiance made up for it.
But let's not forget the main event - the new menu! As part of the renowned Roux hospitality empire, Cromlix House has now ventured out on its own, with Executive Head Chef Darin Campbell at the helm. The open kitchen in The Glasshouse, a stunning extension with floor-to-ceiling windows, serves as the fine dining restaurant. As we perused the extensive menu, we were pleasantly surprised by the bread - a good sign of things to come.
For starters, we ordered a sushi roll with miso taramasalata, kimchi mayonnaise, and crispy octopus, which was delectable in its small but flavorful portion. The other starter, grilled mackerel fillet with coconut, toasted peanut chili salad, avocado, and pickled ginger, caught our attention with its unconventional combination of ingredients. The fresh fish and subtle flavor of its dark meat, paired with the fusion of diverse flavors, made for a unique and satisfying dish.
Moving on to our mains, we opted for a classic country house dish - Aberdeenshire lamb rack and shank with garlic potato, broccoli puree, asparagus, and carrots. And for those with a more adventurous palate, a colorful ramen dish with salmon, grilled tiger prawns, spring vegetables, noodles, and a poached hen's egg. Both dishes were beautifully presented and equally delicious, representing a perfect blend of traditional and Asian influences.
To end our meal on a sweet note, we indulged in two beautifully crafted desserts. The Valrhona dulcey chocolate with green apple, miso, palmier, and a scoop of ice cream was a work of art, disappearing from our plates in record time. The light and refreshing sheep's milk parfait with Perthshire rhubarb, resembling a pretty pink éclair, was the perfect choice for a warm summer evening.
Overall, our dining experience at Cromlix House was a departure from the signature French flavors of the Roux playbook, and more reminiscent of the menus Campbell had helped create during his time at other prestigious establishments. But as we sat on the lawn, basking in the warm summer sun, it was exactly what we needed. If you're looking for a memorable dining experience, be sure to visit Cromlix House in Kinbuck, Stirling - you won't regret it. And if you're interested in more reviews like this, be sure to subscribe to Scottish Field to stay up to date with the latest issue.
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