January 28th 2024.
Every year, on the last Tuesday of January, a unique and highly sought-after fire festival takes place in the Shetland Islands. My friend, who is also a travel writer, once told me about this festival and how difficult it was to get tickets. Even though she was married to a local, she still struggled to secure a spot. It's not just the outdoor torch procession that is in high demand, but also the all-night after parties hosted by volunteer-run feasting halls.
Ever since she told me about it, I've been dying to experience Lerwick's Up Helly Aa festival. And last year, I finally got my chance. As soon as my photographer and I arrived, we headed straight to the VisitScotland tourist centre to put our names on the waiting list for the feasting halls. And to our delight, two tickets became available. I felt like Charlie from Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, finally getting a golden ticket.
Up Helly Aa is the world's largest Viking fire festival and it takes place on the last Tuesday of January every year. It's a high-concept spectacle designed to banish evil spirits, light up the night, and bring the island community together. The procession is led by groups of "guizers" dressed in themed outfits, who stomp through the dark streets of Lerwick before gathering at an open space near the town hall. Here, the 1000-strong procession throws their fire torches into a full-size Viking galley, igniting a spectacular display that leaves the crowd roaring with excitement.
Unfortunately, the only accommodation we could find was a coastal cottage located 30 minutes away from Lerwick. But we didn't mind making the drive, as spending a night in Valhalla was worth it. And the road through the windswept and treeless tundra of the island was a memorable experience in itself.
My photographer and I were not the only ones excited about Up Helly Aa. This year, for the first time in its 140-year history, female guizers were allowed to march in the procession. Although I only counted three, it's a step towards more inclusivity for this popular festival. I spoke to one of the young guizers, Jack, who was dressed as a priest, and he was enthusiastic about the change.
But the main topic of discussion among the locals was the new safety measures implemented by the police chief. Many felt that the excessive use of hi-vis vests and roadblocks were unnecessary for an event that has been safely celebrated for over a century.
My photographer, Darren Smith, was also here to capture the festivities for his coffee table book on unusual festivals around the world. We were lucky enough to get a photo of Glynn, a member of the Jarl Squad, outside the Lerwick library. We assumed he would be drinking whisky, but to our surprise, he preferred limoncello. He even invited us to join his squad for a drink after the procession, but unfortunately, we were unable to reach him. So we headed to our feasting hall for some mead and Scotch from the Co-op, feeling like Glynn wouldn't judge us.
Our first stop was Sound Primary, where we were greeted with the unique experience of drinking Scotch in a school refectory. We were then invited to fill our plates from a steaming buffet and enjoy a night of merriment. As I explored the school, I stumbled upon the dimly lit sports hall, which was the center of all the action. Each squad performed their recitals here, with satirical and often hilarious performances addressing recent events.
I even had the opportunity to join in with a Harry and Meghan-themed Ceilidh, and I met a couple from Spain who had come all the way to experience this event. It was clear that Up Helly Aa is a highly anticipated and cherished tradition for both locals and visitors alike.
As my photographer pointed out, there is a fascinating contrast to Up Helly Aa. On one hand, it feels like an exclusive community affair, not easily accessible to outsiders. But on the other hand, the guizers and locals are welcoming and full of cheer. This, combined with the unique and idiosyncratic nature of the festival, makes it a truly unforgettable experience.
So this January, instead of chasing the sun in some tropical destination, why not join the blazing fire at Up Helly Aa? I know I would choose it every time. Skol!
If you're interested in attending Lerwick's Up Helly Aa, mark January 30 on your calendar. And if you can't make it, don't worry, there are other fire festivals around the Shetland Islands that run until mid-March. For more information, visit uphellyaa.org. And for travel information, visit northlinkferries.co.uk/uphellyaa and discoverhighlandsandislands.scot.
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