July 22nd 2024.
As a person, I admire those who have the courage to take on the challenge of reviving spaces that have failed for other restaurant owners. This has been seen in Edinburgh with the success of Tom Kitchin and Heron in Leith, as well as Dominic Jack at Castle Terrace and the Radfords at the Timberyard in the Old Town, all of which have earned Michelin stars.
The latest chef-patron to take on this task is Dan Ashmore, who has teamed up with the Dean Banks Group to breathe new life into the space that was recently occupied by The Chophouse in Leith. Unfortunately, The Chophouse fell victim to the challenges of Covid and the ongoing disruption caused by the tram works. However, with its elegant decor, top-notch kitchen, and convenient location just 100 yards from the Foot of the Walk tram stop, it was only a matter of time before someone would take over this prime spot.
It comes as no surprise that the dynamic duo of Ashmore and Banks – known for their successful restaurants such as Haar and Dune in St Andrews, Dulse and The Pompadour in Edinburgh – would jump at the opportunity. Ashmore's impressive background includes working at two Michelin-starred restaurants in London and serving as head chef at the renowned Pompadour at the Waldorf Caledonian when it was run by the Galvin brothers. Needless to say, he brings a wealth of experience and expertise to the table.
Their new venture, aptly named Askr (Old Norse for 'ash'), sets itself apart by showcasing Ashmore's mastery of cooking over flames and coals using a three-tier construction. This style of cooking has always intrigued me, especially after a conversation with the late Andrew Fairlie who spoke fondly of his first job cooking over hot coals on a safari camp. He believed this experience played a pivotal role in his rise to earning two Michelin stars.
Our culinary journey began with cocktails at the bar, followed by a seat at the high counter overlooking the open prep station where Ashmore himself chatted with us while preparing two canapes. He is engaging, outgoing, and happy to answer any questions from diners. This set-up is similar to The Table and Eorna, but here, the interaction is just one element of the overall dining experience, which is a refreshing innovation. In fact, the canape of burnt croustade with turbot roe, chive emulsion, and taramasalata that Ashmore prepared in front of us was arguably the most memorable dish of the evening. The other canape, mackerel with kombucha ketchup and pickled ginger, was also a delightful process and a perfect palate cleanser.
We then moved to a table in the main dining area to continue our 13-course culinary journey. As we waited for the next course, we took a moment to appreciate our surroundings. The already upscale decor has been elevated even further, as evidenced by a bride and groom who had chosen Askr for their wedding dinner, with the bride still dressed in her wedding gown.
Our first proper course was a Cumbrae oyster, dry-aged and served in a creamy sauce that somewhat masked its characteristic silkiness. However, Ashmore's take on a buttery chicken wing, cooked over coals and incredibly tender, was a standout dish. As expected with tasting menus, the courses came one after the other. A flatbread, more like a sourdough soaked in olive oil, was served with a rich and tangy aubergine dip, earning our approval. A small and intricate beetroot creation with apple and crème fraiche, served in a deep bowler hat-shaped bowl, was less well-received as the flavors were lost in the depth of the dish.
Our seafood journey began with a scallop dish enhanced by nduja foam, but the accompanying borlotti beans were a bit too firm for my liking. This was followed by monkfish, dry-aged for up to ten days, crusted with walnuts and served with asparagus and asparagus sauce.
The next two dishes were definite highlights of the meal. The first was lobster cooked in wagyu fat, accompanied by lobster claw tempura – a slightly oily but delicious indulgence. Then came a beaker of duck consommé with mushrooms, which we thoroughly enjoyed, followed by duck breast with brassica, apricot, and hoisin sauce.
As our meal came to an end, we were treated to a chunk of delicious Baron Bigod cheese with pickled walnut and quince jelly, followed by a slightly sweet bergamot pudding with lemongrass. The final dishes were a strawberry, yoghurt, and vanilla creation, followed by four delightful petit fours.
Overall, the experience was a mix of good and great. The staff were knowledgeable and attentive, Ashmore was a pleasure to interact with, and the surroundings were elegant yet inviting. The highlight, however, was the selection of wines that perfectly complemented each dish, with a smooth and buttery white wine from Patagonia standing out as a personal favorite.
At £115 for the signature tasting menu, I am still a bit uncertain about the 'flame and coals' methodology, and believe that Askr is still a work in progress at this price point. However, their £45 three-course a la carte menu and two lunch menus – a four-course lunch and a half-lobster lunch, both priced at £35 – offer fantastic value and are sure to attract many diners during the festival season.
Above all, let us hope that Askr, like Kitchin and all the successful restaurant owners who have taken on the challenge of reviving failing spaces, will be around for many years to come.
Visit ASKR at 102 Constitution Street, Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6AW or call 0131 283 3309 to make a reservation. For more reviews, click here. Subscribe to read the latest issue of Scottish Field.
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