July 17th 2024.
As the sun sets over Lower Largo, Richard Bath eagerly heads to the Crusoe, a charming boutique hotel nestled next to the quay. He's curious to see what changes have been made since his last visit and if the hotel still lives up to its reputation as a must-visit destination for city dwellers seeking a short getaway.
Once upon a time, the Crusoe was a beloved spot for city folk looking for a break from the hustle and bustle of urban life. Whether it was for a round of golf in the picturesque East Neuk and St. Andrews, a day at the Fife Point-to-point races, or a romantic escape, this hotel was a popular choice for many in Scotland. However, as time passed, it seemed to fade into obscurity, until a new company took over three years ago and gave the Crusoe a much-needed revival. This year, it was even named one of The Times' top five hotels in Scotland and won the prestigious title of Romantic Hotel of the Year at the Scottish National Hotel of the Year Awards. With such high praise, Bath couldn't resist the opportunity to visit and give his own professional assessment of the hotel.
The first thing that struck him upon arriving was the picturesque beauty of Lower Largo, especially when the sun was shining. While it may not have the same high price tag as its neighboring town of Elie, Lower Largo boasts similar qualities such as stunning sea views, charming historic homes, a sense of old-world charm, and one of the best beaches in Fife. Despite the influx of second homes, AirBNBs, and rising property prices, Lower Largo still maintains a strong sense of community. With a cricket club, sailing club, local pub, and a popular arts festival, there's always something happening in this quaint village. Plus, with its convenient location less than an hour's drive from Edinburgh and an hour and a half from Glasgow, it's easily accessible by car, bus, or train (especially now that the Leven station has reopened).
But enough about Lower Largo, let's dive into the Crusoe itself. Bath is pleased to report that the hotel has undergone a gradual rebuilding process since being added to the portfolio of Graham and Rachel Bucknall, who also own the Ship in Elie and the Bridge Inn at Ratho. The most obvious highlight of the Crusoe is its prime location in the heart of the village, right on the shore and under the shadow of the iconic disused railway viaduct. All of the rooms offer stunning sea views, and Bath was lucky enough to stay in the No.1 suite, which not only boasts a 180-degree view of the sea but also a balcony where he could soak up some rays while watching the boats go by in the Firth. His room also featured a luxurious en suite bathroom, complete with a bathtub perfectly positioned for a relaxing soak with a view. And for those concerned about parking in the tight streets of Lower Largo, the Crusoe has designated parking for hotel guests.
Inside, the hotel's ground floor houses a cozy bar that's a popular spot for golf parties, proud parents attending St. Andrews graduations, and city dwellers looking for a temporary reprieve from their busy lives. On sunny days, guests can enjoy their drinks outside and even order some bar food. Bath and his companion decided to bask in the fading sunlight and indulge in a pre-dinner drink before heading up to the Crusoe's first-floor restaurant. With its stripped floors, ancient stone walls, and trendy tongue and groove design, the restaurant provided a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere for the pair to catch up and enjoy their meal. They opted for some classic comfort food, starting with a delicious smoked salmon and crab roulade and a bowl of perfectly cooked moules mariniere (although Bath notes they could have been a bit bigger). For their main courses, Bath's companion chose the freshly-caught mackerel with capers and shallots, while Bath himself went for the indulgent venison ragu with tagliatelle, which was just what he needed after a day on the golf course. They ended the meal with an affogato and some ice cream from Arran, followed by a nightcap in the newly opened first-floor whisky snug with its breathtaking views of the beach and sea. The attentive staff and decent wine list only added to the overall enjoyable experience.
So, what's Bath's verdict on the Crusoe? He's happy to report that the hotel is well on its way to reclaiming its former glory, thanks to the new owners who have capitalized on its natural charms. Bath himself had a lovely stay and plans to return in the future. For more reviews, check out the website, and be sure to subscribe to the latest issue of Scottish Field for even more travel inspiration.
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