October 27th 2024.
Nima Rinji Sherpa, an 18-year-old mountaineer from Nepal, recently achieved a remarkable feat. He became the youngest person to summit all 14 of the world's highest peaks. However, despite this incredible accomplishment, Nima is already looking ahead to his next big challenge.
As we spoke to Nima via video call from Kathmandu, he shared that his ears were still tinged black from the harsh winds he encountered during his climbs. It's a common occupational hazard for anyone attempting to reach the highest peaks where the air is thin and the weather can turn deadly in an instant.
After taking a couple of weeks to rest, Nima will soon embark on his next adventure. Along with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, he plans to climb Manaslu, the world's eighth-highest mountain, during winter and in alpine-style. This means they will face the daunting task of climbing an 8,000-meter peak without the assistance of fixed ropes or oxygen. Nima explained, "It's like pure human endurance. It has never been done in the history of mountaineering."
But after this challenging climb, Nima plans to take some well-deserved rest. When asked about his future plans, he laughed and said, "I'll take some rest." On October 9th, Nima and his climbing partner Pasang Nurbu Sherpa reached the summit of Shishapangma, the final peak on their list of "eight-thousanders." These are the 14 peaks recognized by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation as standing more than 8,000 meters above sea level.
For Nima, reaching the top of Shishapangma was a moment of pure joy. He credited his family, many of whom are renowned mountaineers, for inspiring and supporting him throughout his journey. Nima's father, Tashi Lakpa Sherpa, has climbed Everest nine times and was the youngest person to summit without bottled oxygen at the age of 19. His uncle, Mingma Sherpa, was the first South Asian climber to summit all 14 peaks in 2011.
Nima spoke fondly of his family and their success, saying, "My uncles and my father, they are way more successful than I would ever be because they came from a very small village. To even dream about being this successful, for them it was really hard. I have the privilege that they didn't have."
Nima also hopes to use his achievements to inspire other young Sherpa climbers. He wants to show them that they can also become professional mountaineers and not just be seen as support staff. Nima shared his aspirations, saying, "Hopefully, I become the face of a big brand. And then the younger generation of Sherpas, they don't see this as a dead job, you know, like a risky job. They see this as an athletic feat as well."
Nepal's Sherpa community has been an integral part of the mountaineering industry for generations. Their expertise and strength have been invaluable for foreigners attempting climbs in the Himalayan region. However, they often do not receive the same recognition or financial rewards as their Western counterparts.
Despite his record-breaking achievements, Nima's climbs did not attract big-name sponsors, and he relied on his father's 14 Peaks Expedition company for funds and logistical support. Nima expressed his disappointment, saying, "Everybody talks about Sherpas being superhuman, but how many Sherpas do we see being the face of a brand or being a sponsored athlete? None."
Nima hopes to change this and leave a better legacy for the next generation. He believes that Nepal's young climbers can make a difference by making the industry more sustainable and reducing the impact of tourism on the mountains. Nima shared his dream of starting an organization that would fund training and technical facilities to help young Nepalis pursue climbing and guiding as a profession.
Nepali climbers have been breaking records this year, and Nima is proud to be a part of this generation. He mentioned climbers like Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, Mingma G Sherpa, and Phunjo Jhangmu Lama, who have achieved remarkable feats in the Himalayas. Nima dreams of seeing Nepali climbers getting the same recognition and opportunities as professional Western climbers. He said, "The generation before us, they are the pioneers, we're climbing the route that they established. But I'm just so happy that I'm living in this moment right now, so much is happening in the world of mountaineering. And as a younger generation, we'll always try to do something better."
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