July 2nd 2024.
Pomelo. It's a name that seems to be on everyone's lips in Edinburgh. It's the kind of place that you can't help but hear about, and with good reason. It's so popular that making a reservation can sometimes feel like a daunting task, with tables being booked weeks in advance. And that's not even taking into consideration their special collaborative menus, which often require even more planning to secure a spot.
But what exactly is all the fuss about? Well, let me tell you. Pomelo has made a name for itself by creating innovative Asian fusion dishes using locally sourced Scottish ingredients. Now, when I hear the word "fusion," I have to admit, I am a bit hesitant. I've been to many fusion restaurants that have good intentions and creative ideas, but somehow fall short when it comes to capturing the true essence of the cultural dishes they are trying to recreate. So, while I was eager to try Pomelo's food, I couldn't help but feel a bit nervous that it wouldn't live up to my expectations.
But let me tell you, Pomelo did not disappoint. From the moment we walked in, it was clear that freshness was the name of the game. Everything from the ingredients to the menus themselves were constantly changing on a weekly basis, with new and innovative takes on Chinese and Asian cuisines. I had the opportunity to speak with the owner about his inspiration, and it was evident that while they love to experiment, authenticity is always at the forefront. Each dish is carefully crafted or adapted by young, talented Asian chefs who have a deep understanding and appreciation for their cultural cuisine and its unique flavors, textures, and pairings.
As my guest and I were seated by the owner's wife, we were kindly walked through the dining experience and even offered wine pairings. We were both excited to try orange wine for the first time, and with her guidance, we selected two that would complement both the fish and heartier meat dishes.
Our meal began with a classic cold dish of garlic chili smacked cucumber and woodear mushroom. This has always been one of my favorite dishes, with its simplicity and perfect combination of textures – the crispness of the cucumber and the chewiness of the mushroom. Pomelo's version stayed true to the original, but I must say, I was impressed with the generous amount of chili oil they used.
But my absolute favorite dish of the night was the hot and sour trout tartare. This dish was bursting with flavor and freshness, with just the right amount of heat. And the prawn cracker that we piled the tartare on top of added a satisfying crunch. The underrated trout paired beautifully with the seasoning, creating a mouth-watering and addictive combination.
Now, being in Scotland for some time now, I have learned one thing about Scottish people – they love their battered food. So, of course, we couldn't pass up the Crispy Enoki & Shimeji mushroom in lemongrass and chili sauce. The golden, crunchy batter of this dish made each bite a delight. And the unique choice of enoki mushrooms added an extra level of flavor and texture, perfectly complementing the sweet and spicy chili sauce.
One of Pomelo's most popular dishes is their Hand Ripped Noodles, and on this particular night, they were served with doubanjiang – a salty, spicy fermented bean paste often used in Sichuan cuisine – and whipped tofu for their take on Mapo Tofu. The noodles were perfectly chewy, although perhaps a bit too long for my liking. But the combination of the doubanjiang and whipped tofu created a spicy and savory sauce that coated the noodles beautifully. While it's hard to beat the original version of mapo tofu, I still thoroughly enjoyed this dish for its bold flavors, unique textures, and creative twist.
For all my fellow potato lovers out there, you won't want to miss out on the braised mushroom and potatoes in three cup sauce. This is a Taiwanese creation made with equal parts rice wine, soy sauce, and sesame oil, and typically used in dishes like three cup chicken. But Pomelo's vegetarian and vegan-friendly twist with mushrooms and potatoes was a hit. The addition of cilantro and crispy shallots on top added a lovely touch and enhanced the flavors even more.
Next up was the Char Siu pork – a quintessential Cantonese dish full of depth and balanced flavors. And let me tell you, Pomelo nailed it. Their version was perfectly salty, sweet, and succulent. And the cauliflower puree, beetroot, lentil & spring onion salad that accompanied it was a delightful pairing, adding a fresh and light element to balance out the richness of the pork. I couldn't help but think about sneaking back to the kitchen for some leftover char siu later that night.
Now, I don't know about you, but I always have room for dessert. And the Filipino-inspired peach and mango hand pie topped with vanilla ice cream was the perfect way to end our evening. The crispy crust coated in freeze-dried raspberries and filled with warm peach and mango was like a warm hug for the soul. It reminded me of my childhood favorite, toaster strudel, but elevated to a whole new level.
Overall, my experience at Pomelo was nothing short of delightful. You can tell that they truly care about every aspect of their restaurant, from their exceptional service to their thoughtfully crafted menu. I will definitely be keeping an eye out for their collaborations with other local eateries in the future.
If you want to read more reviews, be sure to check them out here. And don't forget to subscribe to the latest issue of Scottish Field for even more culinary adventures.
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