A review of Margo in Glasgow.

Richard Bath reviews Margo, the new restaurant from the creators of Ka Pao and Ox & Finch, and is highly impressed with the experience.

October 24th 2024.

A review of Margo in Glasgow.
Richard Bath had the privilege of trying out the new restaurant from the talented team behind Ka Pao and Ox & Finch. He was left thoroughly impressed by the experience.

As a regular patron of Ox & Finch, I was eager to visit Margo, the latest addition to Scoop Restaurants' portfolio in Glasgow's city center. And let me tell you, I was not disappointed. Margo embodies the same winning formula that has made Scoop's other restaurants a hit among both critics and diners in Glasgow.

Founder Jonathan MacDonald promised that Margo would be "relaxed, accessible and fun, alongside a focus on quality." And indeed, the restaurant lives up to this promise, with its cozy ambiance and tasteful decor. Spread over two floors with a long bar as its centerpiece, Margo exudes a lively energy that one would expect on a bustling Saturday night. Our server even joked that we should come back on a Saturday night to witness the frenzy for ourselves.

We started our culinary journey with some delicious focaccia, served with a delightful Kalamata olive tapenade. The menu at Margo is divided into four sections, and we were advised to choose two to three dishes from each. The concept of small plates is becoming increasingly popular, and Margo has embraced this trend with their diverse menu.

From croquettes filled with ham hough, smoked paprika, and guindilla chilli to chipsticks with taramaslata, each dish was a unique and flavorful experience. We also had the pleasure of watching head chef Robin Aitken and his team work their magic in the open kitchen, which added to the overall dining experience.

The highlight of our meal was the lamb faggots, served with bonnet polenta and salsa verde. This dish was bursting with intense flavors and textures, and it was a clear winner for me. We also enjoyed a plate of super-tender cold roast lamb and a crab tart topped with crab meat. The only disappointment was the beef tartare, which was a bit lacking in beef.

We ended our meal on a sweet note, with three delectable desserts – a lemon and sorrel posset, a brown butter almond tart, and a figtastic special. Each one was a perfect balance of flavors and textures.

My only complaint, if I may, is about the wine list. While it offers a wide selection of reasonably priced wines from around the world, it lacks descriptions and information about the wines. It would be helpful to know if the wines are natural, biodynamic, low-sulphite, or organic, as these factors can greatly affect the taste.

But overall, Margo was a brilliant dining experience. The food was consistently excellent, and the atmosphere was warm and inviting. I highly recommend a visit to this new gem in Glasgow's bustling restaurant scene.

Margo can be found at 68 Miller Street, Glasgow G1 1DT. For more reviews, check out Scottish Field. And don't forget to subscribe to stay updated with the latest issue. Bon appétit!

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