June 23rd 2024.
As I arrived in Jersey, the largest of the Channel Islands, I was greeted by a vibrant display of rainbows and laughter from people of all ages. Despite its small size, Jersey is a place that can be a bit confusing with its split personality. As I drove on the left side of the road from the airport to the capital, St Helier, the houses looked just like any other British town. But as I sat outside the Cock & Bottle, enjoying a very English atmosphere, I couldn't help but feel like I was in Normandy, which was only 14 miles away.
The square where I sat was bustling with a French food market, offering all kinds of meats and cheeses, and a big branch of Boots. I needed to charge my phone, but quickly realized that the socket was French, and there was an English one just a few feet away. It was a small reminder of the unique blend of British and French influences in Jersey.
My reason for visiting Jersey was to celebrate Pride. Jersey and Guernsey take turns hosting the festivities each year, organized by the local branch of Liberate, an equality and diversity charity. Despite the combined population of the Channel Islands being only around 170,000, the LGBTQ+ celebrations were just as lively and joyful as those in bigger cities.
As a seasoned Pride-goer, I have traveled far and wide to celebrate with my community. I never miss the Pride celebrations in London and Manchester, and I've even celebrated in cities like LA, Toronto, Stockholm, and Sydney in the past. So, I was excited to see what this quirky little island had to offer.
One of the highlights of the Pride celebrations was the People's Park, which was transformed into a rainbow-colored village fete. The park was filled with a funfair, bars, food trucks, and a stage where local talent performed disco covers. It was heartwarming to see families of all kinds, including straight families, joining in on the celebrations and showing their support. In fact, it was clear that there weren't enough LGBTQ+ people on the island to fill the park, making it even more special to see the whole community come together.
The Pride celebrations continued into the night at the after-party in the Drift bar at the Royal Yacht Hotel. Dressed to impress under a neon sign that read "A Little Party Never Killed Nobody," we were entertained by imported drag queens who put on a dazzling and sometimes disturbing show. They even did a better job at performing Kylie Minogue songs than Kylie herself!
The next afternoon, we attended the Drag Brunch at the hotel, where we were treated to more fabulous performances and delicious food. It was a stark contrast to the normally sedate atmosphere of St Helier, but it was clear that the locals were embracing the festivities with open arms.
When Pride wasn't in full swing, there were plenty of things to see and do in Jersey. I took a RIB boat tour with Jersey Seafaris, which offered a more exhilarating way to see the islands. We even got to cruise around and spot some dolphins before indulging in some doughnuts and drinks on the boat.
For a change of scenery, I took a 90-minute coastal walk to St Aubin, a charming harbour town. I strolled through the cute streets and stopped to enjoy a delicious meal at The Boat House or The Muddy Duck. And, of course, I couldn't resist popping into the Trafalgar Inn for a pint and some live music.
Jersey also has some beautiful beaches, like the popular St Brelades, where I enjoyed a refreshing swim on a hot day. Other beaches, like Portelet, offered stunning views and the opportunity to dine at the Portelet Inn on the cliffside.
As we explored the island, we learned about its history, including its occupation by the Germans during WWII. We visited the Jersey War Tunnels, which were built by German soldiers using slave labour. It was a sobering experience, but also fascinating to learn about the island's past.
Despite its sedate nature, Jersey has no shortage of fine dining options. The Michelin-starred Bohemia restaurant in our hotel, The Club, offered a 14-course tasting menu that was truly out of this world.
And, of course, I couldn't leave Jersey without mentioning the friendly locals. Our taxi driver, a 70-year-old man, shared with us that he had spent the day at Pride with his daughter, who identifies as pansexual. He even revealed that he and his wife, who are both in their 60s and 70s, are into the swinging scene. It was a reminder that Jersey may seem like a quiet holiday spot, but there is so much more to it than meets the eye.
To get to Jersey, I took a ferry with Condor Ferries from Poole or Portsmouth, or you can fly with easyJet. No matter how you get there, I highly recommend a visit to this charming island. And if you happen to be there during Pride month, you can join in on the celebrations that bring together people from all walks of life.
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