August 16th 2023.
Tiara Darnell, a native of Mitchellville, Maryland, has brought soul food to Mexico City. Her restaurant, Blaxicocina, is the only one of its kind in the city. This first-time restaurant owner has made it her mission to serve the Narvarte community with food and funds. Her staff is made up of Mexican nationals, with the exception of one person. Most of her vendors and contractors are also Mexican nationals.
In order to provide authentic soul food, Darnell has had to find creative ways to get the necessary ingredients. Spices and foods used in African American dishes are not available in Mexico City. This prompted her to partner with The Heirloom Collard Project after she was unable to find collard greens in the region. She also has to grind her own corn to make the cornbread and coating for fried green tomatoes.
The restaurant has been well-received by the locals and Black people in the city. Lesly Aldana, one customer, praised the combination of food, culture, and environmental options. Adi Shaku Bennu, a friend of Darnell's, noted that it was inspiring to see people come to Mexico and build something great outside of the United States.
Darnell understands that Americans moving to Mexico raises the cost of living, but she is determined to create a welcoming space for all people. Many Blacks in Mexico City left the U.S. to escape systemic racism and oppression. Blaxicocina has become a place of comfort and a reminder that one can make it outside of the United States.
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